3D printed DD rotary from Norway!

[iden]

Yo!

I thought I should share my latest project, my 3D printed machines!
Right around christmas I figured I should by myself a 3D printer, had no idea what I could use it for, but it didn't take long before I started some drawings in Sketchup for machineframes.
I have been building coilmachines and rotaries for about 3 years now, with mixed results. But now, I'm onto something.

The machines are printed in four parts; Vice, vicescrew, motorbody and the "custom" backplate.
And the process takes about 2-3 hours printing in total, and with my setup, it requires a bit of finishing, sanding, grinding and polish. I guess one machine takes about 6-7hours to make.
Parts are printed in PLA (sugar/corn-based plastic, gives a nice stone-ish feel and look when sanded and polished, its even environmental friendly, like I care when I'm driving around with my Ford Bronco 302..)

Motor is the Mabuchi RK-370CA, cant remember the specs right now, but it runs great around 8volts.

My goal with this project was to be able to find the perfect rotary liner, that fits my way of tattooing. And I think I've succeeded.
I have used a couple of prototypes for 5-6months now, and they are still giving a nice punch!
Primary for old school, bold and solid.

Gives nice lines with 3-5-7-9, and whips awesome with 9-11-15mag. The cam wheel is chinamade, until i get the bucks to buy myself a small lathe, and has a 4.5mm stroke.

I haven't seen anyone print rotarys before, only some halfass coil-frames, that I do not think is any good, vibrations, cracks, heat etc. And big and ugly.

The design I have come up with is more practical than visual, easy to disassemble, replace parts and clean. Designwise it is kinda difficult to design something that's easy to print, without many hours of cleaning etc.

So, anyone that thinks this could be something?
I want to spend more money on swiss motors, but then the total cost would be to high, and I really think the Mabuchis are great.

I hope you likeylike!

-Kristoffer, Sail Away Tattoo, Drammen, Norway

Here are some pics!

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[ATS]

These look great mate.. And that's a really good idea 3d printing your own design.. 6-7 hours to make one is a very acceptable turnaround too.. Let us know if you go into selling them as I'm sure you'd get interest bro.
Oh and welcome to the forum!

[Pinhas]

great idea, the machine look nice and light. how much weight ?

[iden]

These look great mate.. And that's a really good idea 3d printing your own design.. 6-7 hours to make one is a very acceptable turnaround too.. Let us know if you go into selling them as I'm sure you'd get interest bro.
Oh and welcome to the forum!
Thanks!
6-7hours isn´t that much really, after spending many hours welding, grinding, brazing and winding coilmachines, this is the faster way.
There will be machines for sale, i guess a batch of limited prototypes in the first place, and before that there will be a couple machines for my co-workers to play with.

The fun thing with 3D printing is the variety in customizing each machine, colours etc. And the idea behind the backplate is that i can add whatever the customer wants, that is printable.



great idea, the machine look nice and light. how much weight ?
Thanks!
Well, I haven´t weight it yet, but the motor is around 50grams, my guess it´s about 100grams in total. Very light and designed to have a nice balance.

It runs a bit slower than the DD rotary from H&M Roman, at the same volts, but feels a bit more like a punchy whipshader coilmachine.

Right now I´m trying to design the motorframe a bit better for finishing, it has a lot of angles and edges in the original design, but is a big pain to sand down and polish. You just can´t use any machines to sand it down since its plastic and that will melt the areas being sanded. (no issues with heat when tattooing etc.)

Here is an example, both lined and packed with my prototypes:
25555

[turnrock]

nice! i 3d printed some prototypes a couple years ago but i got kind of bored with the whole 3d printing thing and sold my printers to buy guitars lol.
heres one of the first i made.
http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t175/youmanitee/f623ae41-fd09-4394-90e8-955c7823a9e2_zps3584936e.jpg

[No Iron Machines]

COMPLIMENTS, didi u done the program youself ? very cool

about the 4.5 mm stroke u wanna done, for my opinion after 3.5 stroke on direct drive,the needles bar gonna move to much lateral, no good

[iden]

COMPLIMENTS, didi u done the program youself ? very cool

about the 4.5 mm stroke u wanna done, for my opinion after 3.5 stroke on direct drive,the needles bar gonna move to much lateral, no good

Thank you!
Yes, I designed the whole thing in Sketchup, the ones I have ended up using is the third render of the frame, I guess the fourth and fifth render will be the completed design..
I actually designed my 3D printer as well :P
First i bought the Makerfarm Prusa i3, but I wasn´t happy with it at all, too much vibrations and movement.
Then I redesigned the printer to a H-bot gantry with fishing lines, but that one became to unstable.
And now I have the IKEA-hacked something-shelf, hammered together with the axis I need and in some different materials.
The linear bearings from the Makerfarm was some poor shit, so I found some old steel-grips that got lubed up, slides like a motherf***! :)

Ill post some pics of the "ScrapBot" and some videos later!

4.5mm stroke is what I have, and I got it to work fine. The needlebar is not hitting the tube and no rubberbands has snapped yet!

My goal is to build some prototypes to sell, and the fund a better printersetup that gives me less cleanup after printing.

[iden]

Here is a couple of pictures of my DIY 3D printer, the awesome scrapbot! Built out of stuff I had lying around and from the first printer i bought.

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[turnrock]

Repstraps are the rad,theres some group in Africa literally making them out of trash/e-waste they get at the dump.shoot as long as the prints look good.
iden your prints do look smooth,did you give them an acetone bath?

I used my commercial 3d printer to print most of the parts to make a Tantillus http://www.tantillus.org/Home.html. Yup you can 3d print a 3d printer.welcome to the future.

[iden]

Repstraps are the rad,theres some group in Africa literally making them out of trash/e-waste they get at the dump.shoot as long as the prints look good.
iden your prints do look smooth,did you give them an acetone bath?

I used my commercial 3d printer to print most of the parts to make a Tantillus http://www.tantillus.org/Home.html. Yup you can 3d print a 3d printer.welcome to the future.

Oh yes!
It´s cool to make something out of what you got, and actually get a pretty decent product with it.
Most of mye coilmachines that I have built are from scrapmetal, coins, keys and whatever. Even made my own coilcores from 8mm bolts, haha.

The rotarys are printed in PLA, easy to sand down with fine grit, some filing and polish. ABS feels too plastic imo. PLA gives a more stoneish-feel to it all assembled.

Yeah, I have downloaded the files for the Tantillus, thats where I got the inspiration to use fishing line from. Too bad they stopped selling that printer..
I have a couple small printers i mind for 2015 that looks pretty good.
Next year will be a big boom of small and affordable printers I think! :)

[iden]

I´ve got some updates for you!
Last week I designed a frame that is a bit more friendly to finish after printing. The one you have seen has a lot og edges in the motor-frame-part, and gives me a hard time to file and sand down properly. So I reworked a round motorframe, and this is al lot easier to give a nice polished surface with no layers visible.

Here is the difference between raw printed and processed, not polished, only filed and sanded.
25726

I´ve also made a couple of machines for my brothers at Sail Away to play with:
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The next step now is to finish up a couple of prototypes to sell to a couple of my fellow tattooers here in Norway.
If the feedback is to my expectations, I´ll start a small production of this design, all numbered and signed.
And all of the bolts, nuts and screws will be brass and metric.

I´m not shure what price I´m landing on yet, but my guess is around 320USD or 2000NOK plus shipping for this version. There will be a limited range of colours and the will also be a custom one off line.

And finally i came up with a name for this: PLA-STIK. (Printed in PLA and its plastic, awesome!)

I hope you laaik!

[No Iron Machines]

is very good the quality man, cool, form the pics the BLACK part look better done respect the RED, is a different kind of plastic ?

[iden]

Yeah, it´s the same plastic, but more straighter surface etc. easier to work with. But i bought myself some brand new files yesterday, that might do the trick for getting smooth surfaces, looks like it.

[No Iron Machines]

how long took the printer to print the BLACK piece ???

[iden]

how long took the printer to print the BLACK piece ???

It takes my printer to do it in about 40-45mins, and it takes about an hour to sand down by hand, without working too fast as the plastic naturally melts with too much friction.
The PLA takes around 60-70C before it becomes "unstable" and melts around 190C.

[No Iron Machines]

oh ok cool, compliments again, very inetersted the 3D PRINTER, i think for done prototype and some parts are amazing, i design all my machine with CAD but in 2D, i learn little bit myself, not so difficult, i try 3D i don understand nothing....ha ha ha
i would like to use some of this printer but sound impossible for myself draw in 3D, fuck....h aha h

[iden]

oh ok cool, compliments again, very inetersted the 3D PRINTER, i think for done prototype and some parts are amazing, i design all my machine with CAD but in 2D, i learn little bit myself, not so difficult, i try 3D i don understand nothing....ha ha ha
i would like to use some of this printer but sound impossible for myself draw in 3D, fuck....h aha h

I actually design mine in Sketchup, of course it is a bit more trial and error before you get the final satisfying print. But it is very easy to use, free and fast :)
3D printing is a nice way to do prototyping, but you have to get a pretty expensive printer if you want prints with no finishing touches to the print itself. Thats why im sanding and polishing my machines, it also gives a handmade feel to it..

[OwlsDen]

I would really suggest that once you have the pieces in the form that you want to make molds for casting. Then you can do resin casts or wax casts for lost wax metal casting. It could safe you a lot of extra labor in the long run.

[No Iron Machines]

i have to try this program u say SKETCHUP, need to give a second chance to 3D DESIGN, cool....

[iden]

I would really suggest that once you have the pieces in the form that you want to make molds for casting. Then you can do resin casts or wax casts for lost wax metal casting. It could safe you a lot of extra labor in the long run.
Well, It has been in the back of my head, but right now I don´t have any place to make castings, and the design would not work pretty well in metal. It would be too heavy and chunky.
If i can get this thing rolling, I´ll invest in some proper machining tools, like a small mill and a lathe, and then I can mill my own machines etc in aluminium.
Anyway, the machines work perfectly imo. now its just finding the right way to finish the frames effectively and with the best looking finish.

[Tattoo junk]

Hi,


Cool machine!


This is my first post on this forum...i thought this might be usefull in your process.
i think the sanding part is a waiste of your time, not good for your hands and everybody hates sanding i think..


Iff a polis or sand machine will melt it you could try this:

i know allot of hardware stuff and toys and car parts are polished by simply throw it in a bucket with the right material and it get polished by movement, you just need to find out what polish your printed material the best...


Also works on aluminium
it will never melt your product as it never heats up :rolleyes:
And you can polish a few machines at a time

one material at a time


You could try:
#Glas marbles
#Hardend bearings
#nuts
#your toe nails :p
#whatever


A small cement/concreed mixer you see used by construction workers will do the trick for sure you can find these cheap.
they are pretty quiet acctually iff kept clean and lubed.


You can make a cover on top of the bucket and the noise should be minimal.


or you could just expiriment with a plastic bucket with a cover with a material and shake it
I hope i picked the right words as my english is not that good:confused:

[iden]

Funny you should mention that!
Because I experimented with tumbling just a couple a weeks ago! :)

But the thing is, when a print is finished, you´ll have a pretty rough surface, way more that say e.g molds. I could print in a higher resolution, almost 3times better than what I print now, but that would take ages.
It´s faster to file, sand and polish, and now I finally got the hang of it!
Polishing works fine if I move the part around a bit more than metals, it just takes a bit longer to get the "glassy" feel to it.

In the future I´ll invest/or make a tumbler for polishing small parts, but first an upgraded 3Dprinter is on the top of the list!

I also experimented with some carvings, looks like I can do something custom with that.

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[fkirons]

Printing at higher resolution makes the whole print stronger and easier to work with. The lower the resolution the more chances you have to get split layers especially when applying force to the part. Looking good man.


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[iden]

Printing at higher resolution makes the whole print stronger and easier to work with. The lower the resolution the more chances you have to get split layers especially when applying force to the part. Looking good man.


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Thanks! :)

Yep, I know, right now I´m printing with 0.25mm layer and have a 0.45mm nozzle, and with a bit higher flow, lower speed and right amount of cooling it works good, no splitting vice etc.
PLA is easier to work with that way, you can see a bad print right away, that will split.
I´ve done some stresstesting on some of my prototypes, with force, and 6months with tattooing, and that was before I got my printer running optimal. The frames are printed with solid overlapping infill and 1.35mm wall.

[fkirons]

Thanks! :)

Yep, I know, right now I´m printing with 0.25mm layer and have a 0.45mm nozzle, and with a bit higher flow, lower speed and right amount of cooling it works good, no splitting vice etc.
PLA is easier to work with that way, you can see a bad print right away, that will split.
I´ve done some stresstesting on some of my prototypes, with force, and 6months with tattooing, and that was before I got my printer running optimal. The frames are printed with solid overlapping infill and 1.35mm wall.

Solid Infills is the way to go. these guys may take a long time to print but they'll be worth it.
Have you tried acetone to give the printing a smooth finish. If you do it right it may look like you tumbled the part and polished it.

I've noticed that the different colors have different strength and finish.

[iden]

Solid Infills is the way to go. these guys may take a long time to print but they'll be worth it.
Have you tried acetone to give the printing a smooth finish. If you do it right it may look like you tumbled the part and polished it.

I've noticed that the different colors have different strength and finish.

Actually I´m printing in PLA, as in the name of the machine "PLA-stik" ;)
And acetone doesn´t bite on PLA as it does on ABS, there is something else that is used, but I can´t remember the name and have no idea where to get it.
ABS react to several chemicals, but PLA seems to take almost anything, except too much head i.e boiling hot water.
IMO the PLA is better as material for this kind of construction, its harder and its easier to post-process, ABS tend to softly bend and finally break. And of course, there is the handmade-feel to it that matters to me, 3D printing is kinda like molding brass/steel frames for coil-machines, you have to do something to it afterwards..

Yes, different colours have different strength, I find the solid ones the best and easiest to print/process.. The transparent ones can be a pain in the ass sometimes.

[fkirons]

Actually I´m printing in PLA, as in the name of the machine "PLA-stik" ;)
And acetone doesn´t bite on PLA as it does on ABS, there is something else that is used, but I can´t remember the name and have no idea where to get it.
ABS react to several chemicals, but PLA seems to take almost anything, except too much head i.e boiling hot water.
IMO the PLA is better as material for this kind of construction, its harder and its easier to post-process, ABS tend to softly bend and finally break. And of course, there is the handmade-feel to it that matters to me, 3D printing is kinda like molding brass/steel frames for coil-machines, you have to do something to it afterwards..

Yes, different colours have different strength, I find the solid ones the best and easiest to print/process.. The transparent ones can be a pain in the ass sometimes.

Yeah. PLA is more stable and easy to work than ABS and it doesn't require having a heated build plate.
I never tried the acetone process but I saw a video on YouTube.
Tip I discover the other say after several failed rafts: cover your build plate with capton tape and heat it up with a blow dryer until is about to print. Be careful not to melt anything in the printer especially if your build plate is not glass or metal. Prints stick so good!



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