PDA

View Full Version : Treasure Chest ' By Cary'



Neo
03-08-2012, 09:49 PM
WOW This machine is amazing !!You can change the hit , the stroke and its a smooth bad ass. The build is real solid and its sooooo smooth looking and blacked out. It reminds me of a dragon fly but if there was a USA builders version. Its a fuc$ing bad ass machine and i think i like it more then my dragonfly. I have not used it yet but i can tell from running it and the feel of the machine that it is going to be great. It is just a perfect build, the pin/arm is solid and seems better then the rapier meaning when i press it while its running the tip of the pin dont go up and to a slant while the rest of the pin stays lower. Its more solid like the neotat "in a way" but it has give. The give goes throughout the whole length of the pin so its a even "give" throughout. This is a little hard to explain but its damn sweet. I have checked it out and i cant find a complaint and i look for problems with every machine i get always. Cary's Treasure Chest is like the DF but better and at $400 with no skimp on any parts and a great motor with good torq. This machine is very solid and its looking better then higher priced machines and you can do it all with carys machines. He dont make you pay for the stroke rods to change the stroke, he gives you it all including give springs for every job *(springs extra but cheap as Sh$t and worth it). At $385 'give or take' this machine cant be beat. It may be the solidest rotary machine i have ever held so far. The neo tat had no give but i thought the needle bar/pin was solid and real nice and tight and many others didnt compare but cary did something and its solid like the neo. I think it blows the neotat away hands down. It sounds like a smooth tool, a hard to describe sound but its cool and i like it.*Well when i start to use it i will add to my review. I had used coils for lining and maybe will always but with smooth blends a rotary can do better i think( rotarys with give).

PS. I say Cary should make a give spring as hard as plastic like silicone tubing. Even*though i have not tried the hard spring yet but the stock (med) spring is real nice with a little give so the hard might be enough already. If not then a hard ass give spring can make it have a no give hit like a neotat hit and this machine would be complete. A spring that is like a solid brick with no flex at all would work well.*GREAT MACHINE CARY I GIVE IT THE BIG A+ SO FAR. * **. Also a needle tensioner would make it complete, one made on the square vice like the DF one but made on
the square part. It can be made then he just ships the square vice pinch to users and it can go on super easy. This will stop any slop from side to side. There is no slop up and down like the rapier and most machines and i love that.

Clone Boy
03-09-2012, 08:33 PM
I own one. is yours nosey as mine sounds like a coil machine?

OwlsDen
03-10-2012, 04:01 AM
Want to make yours quieter? There is a thread where we were talking about living the rapier. I mentioned that I had wiped down my TC slide with super lube and now it was much quieter. Cary chimed in and said that he wipes his parts down with wd40 ( sprayed on a paper towel ) and that helps as well. Remember this isn't spraying it in to the slide. But removing it and wiping the parts clean with Wd40

Clone Boy
03-10-2012, 03:59 PM
send me the thread link brother... ;-)

Want to make yours quieter? There is a thread where we were talking about living the rapier. I mentioned that I had wiped down my TC slide with super lube and now it was much quieter. Cary chimed in and said that he wipes his parts down with wd40 ( sprayed on a paper towel ) and that helps as well. Remember this isn't spraying it in to the slide. But removing it and wiping the parts clean with Wd40

OwlsDen
03-10-2012, 08:38 PM
http://www.rotarytattoo.com/showthread.php?t=1820

Neo
03-10-2012, 09:47 PM
Mine is pretty quite, rapier is allot louder but i just got it. Wd-40 aint to great on rubers and plastics and silicone cant hurt anything so i dont see how wd-40 is better. I think lube that is thick may cause a malfunction but a low wt lube like 10-15 is pretty thin and allot harmeless. Some builder told me wd-40 aint good for a few reasons one being its not good incase it drips on the skin but the amount you put on can stop that. I cant see how thin lube can hurt but wd-40 wont.

How do i take it apart to wipe piston down ? I got no instructions or anything, no shirt, stickers and i bought 2 in a week lol Just joking but instructions would have helped allot.

OwlsDen
03-11-2012, 07:24 AM
Message Cary he gave me instructions via email but I don't have them anymore. I could try and give them to you from memory but Cary will give you them in the right order. Also as a note the slide is nylon impregnated with Teflon if my memory serves me. Both of these materials would e resistant to the solvents in WD40. Also he doesn't say to lube it with it but to wipe down the parts with it. Also if you just got it you do not need to take it apart and clean it. This machine has a break in period. Maybe after 20 hours use you may decide to clean it.

slicksteel
03-11-2012, 12:54 PM
lol dont fuck with this one neo! its tolerence are so tight like owlsden says it must be broke in then the fine dust cleaned off and lubed with thin superlube,gold cup, or wd40.

Neo
03-11-2012, 10:04 PM
Hahaha ok sounds good