Spektra Halo feedback thread

[rowdy]

How can I get tube vise parts?

[fkirons]

How can I get tube vise parts?
Guillotine? shoot us an email at [email protected]
What is wrong with yours?

[MR-NME]

Ey I tried out my 2 new halos today and was wondering when you tighten the vice should your tube be moving - not sliding up n down but back and forth with the vice- example when I'm shaking it out in the wrince cup or even moving my hand fast with black and grey or even put my machine in a odd position and my tube n vice move and make a very uneasy sound- both machines do that and I never had a machine that allowed the tubes to move usually the vice locks the tube dead in place- this wiggling tube doesn't seem rite? Hope you can help me- other than that machines worked well- but that wiggle was scaring my client-

[MR-NME]

Dont think it's my tubes because I tried it with a tech tube and cartridge as well and that did the same thing? Also I had to kick start the t-techs- didn't really like that- but I want to know if the moving vice issue is normal?

[MR-NME]

@fkirons I read the thing about t techs and removing the spring- ;) Not sure if I described the tube moving thing rite so here it is- when I lock the vice in if you were to hold the machine in place and grab the tube you be able to wiggle the tube n vice a little back and forth- thus the needle making a weird sound as its running- I think that should describe it - any advice?

[psych0ticmisfit]

I experienced the wiggle as well with my stainless steel tubes. The back stem is from kingpin. I used a disposable today and no issue. I'll try another stainless steel one tomorrow and let you know if it happens again. It was weird though. I had it as tight as I could get it and it didn't twist or anything there was just slight play which i believe was in the black guillotine piece inside the main part of the vice.

Edit... Oh and I just received my machine Friday. So I've only had it a few days. Used it twice with disposables and once with stainless steel tubes.

[fkirons]

Ey I tried out my 2 new halos today and was wondering when you tighten the vice should your tube be moving - not sliding up n down but back and forth with the vice- example when I'm shaking it out in the wrince cup or even moving my hand fast with black and grey or even put my machine in a odd position and my tube n vice move and make a very uneasy sound- both machines do that and I never had a machine that allowed the tubes to move usually the vice locks the tube dead in place- this wiggling tube doesn't seem rite? Hope you can help me- other than that machines worked well- but that wiggle was scaring my client-

hey there I sent you a PM but here I go public in case this happens to someone else. There is nothing to worry about. Based on what you are saying, what I think you are experiencing is that the screw in the knob may have not set all the way in the actual knob, causing the screw to be a bit longer, poking your tube and not allowing the guillotine to choke the tube. An easy fix: try to screw it in more or file it down a bit. Of course we can alway send you new knobs if you prefer.

One way to be on the safe side is to close the vise all the way without any tube and make sure that the screw doesn't come off through the tube hole more than 0.5 mm. If it does try to file it down or screw it in if allows it.

With disposable you may not see this issue because the screw will bend the plastic allowing the vise to close.

The vice system was design for American 5/16" and European 8mm tubes but it will take tubes with slight differences.
The guillotine does lock the tube.

[fkirons]

Dont think it's my tubes because I tried it with a tech tube and cartridge as well and that did the same thing? Also I had to kick start the t-techs- didn't really like that- but I want to know if the moving vice issue is normal?
Why you are experiencing is due to that you have to remove the front spring. The t tech cartridge has already a spring. This causes double the load on the motor requiring more voltage to start if the spring is not remove. Anyone using t tech must do this to avoid killing the motor.

[rowdy]

My tube vice is stripped was that way when I got it and when I sent it in for service I put that on the paper I sent with the machine I think they just over looked it. :( but I sent that email gaston what happens next?

[fkirons]

My tube vice is stripped was that way when I got it and when I sent it in for service I put that on the paper I sent with the machine I think they just over looked it. :( but I sent that email gaston what happens next?

weird bro. To strip a vise made out of 7075 T6 is a tough job. Did you get the machine directly from us?
beat thing to do is to call or email us. Email us the detail of the transaction so we can look into it and address it ASAP.

[rowdy]

Ok I emailed about it I got it on trade in the forum so I don't expect free in fact when I got the work done I did for free very happy I emailed what was wrong so we will see and one thing weird about it doesn't have the plastic washer mine other does. It's just a rubber grommet does this make a difference? And if so were can I find one to try to fix it that way?

[psych0ticmisfit]

Thank you Gaston for making such an awesome machine. It puts the ink in effortlessly, it lines great and its sooo light. love it. I will definitely be saving up for a second one.

In regards to the wiggle I experienced.... The thumbscrew is definitely too long like you said and its causing the tube to wiggle. so i put two more washers to keep it from wiggling until i can file down the screw a bit.

[PAWNJOB]

Ok, I think I'm finally ready to give my review.

1- Overall look
I think it's great. Almost too small and plain at first sight (especially coming from a bizarre v2). But the more I use it the more I love it. This is how a machine should look, sleek and minimal. Super easy to wipe down (a nice contrast to the Bizarre!)

2- Weight
Two thumbs up. The lighter the better!

3- Performance, lining, shading coloring.
This machine really can do it all. It's a mean ass liner though! Lining is pretty much the sole purpose of this machine for me. Inside of the upper arm on a fat dude who lost a bunch of weight, no sweat. Tits, no sweat. Fat chick's mid-section, you get the idea. Fast torquey motor. Not my first choice for a color packer or shader though. This machine vibrates too much and it takes away a little bit of the tactile feel of tattooing. It is a good color packer though. But 2.5mm? No thanks, not my cup of tea. Does it run smoother, yes. But the 3.2mm is even a little too short for me. I prefer a long hang for a few good reasons. I'm not willing to give that up in order to achieve a smoother running machine or achieve the right hit for shading/cloring. I just prefer a smoother hit at a longer stroke length for shading/coloring. Or Lining for that matter, but it's worth putting up w/ the vibrations because of it's superiority as a liner at 3.6mm. The 4mm stroke is a bit too much for this particular machine.

IMO you need 2 liners, one finesse liner (smaller configurations and easy-to-tattoo/delicate areas - ex. the calf/top of foot) and one w/ some balls for tough areas. This one has balls.

P.S. Invest in some 1" SS Grips. Weight distribution and balance is incomparable and it really kills a lot of the vibes.

4- MotorBolt system with 1/4 turn lock and release.
Brilliant!!! This would be the end all be all if the Halos were my preference for coloring/shading. Not much need for different stroke length motors for me though because I stick w/ the 3.6mm for everything.

5- Capability of the machine to be sprayed directly with disinfectant or autoclaved.
Like I said, super easy to wipe down. I still spray disinfectant into a paper towel before wiping it down though so as to avoid getting it in the slide mechanism. And I have yet to autoclave it. Nice option but not that practical for me.

6- Anything else you may want to say about the machine.
Unfortunately this seems to be a finicky machine to get running correctly or at least consistently from one Halo to the next. I'm gathering from my experience and some other posts that getting the slide to fit each individual machine properly is a challenge. I'm on my 3rd version of the same Halo machine body. Immediately after purchasing it I had to send it back because it vibrated so much that it spattered all over and was uncomfortable to hold. It ended up that the slide was loose. FKI replaced it free of charge of course. The 2nd incarnation of the machine worked good for awhile but the motor began bogging down a good deal and progressively ran slower and slower until it was useless and produced extremely low torque. It was again fixed free of charge by the good folks at FKI and the motor was replaced for good measure. The cause of it's failure was cited as a misaligned bearing? Anyway, the machine is running well now but it has a different sound and feel than the last two versions. The needles frequently stop in the down position now. It feels like the return spring is having to work too hard. But other than that it runs well so fuck it, I'm content w/ it enough to where I'm not gonna send it back AGAIN.

7- Customer Service and anything we could to better assist you.
Customer service w/ this company is top notch. Quick friendly responses every time and they'll go above and beyond to make things right for you. This is a company w/ good ethics. I feel that they truly do their best to make you happy.

[fkirons]

Ok, I think I'm finally ready to give my review.

1- Overall look
I think it's great. Almost too small and plain at first sight (especially coming from a bizarre v2). But the more I use it the more I love it. This is how a machine should look, sleek and minimal. Super easy to wipe down (a nice contrast to the Bizarre!)

2- Weight
Two thumbs up. The lighter the better!

3- Performance, lining, shading coloring.
This machine really can do it all. It's a mean ass liner though! Lining is pretty much the sole purpose of this machine for me. Inside of the upper arm on a fat dude who lost a bunch of weight, no sweat. Tits, no sweat. Fat chick's mid-section, you get the idea. Fast torquey motor. Not my first choice for a color packer or shader though. This machine vibrates too much and it takes away a little bit of the tactile feel of tattooing. It is a good color packer though. But 2.5mm? No thanks, not my cup of tea. Does it run smoother, yes. But the 3.2mm is even a little too short for me. I prefer a long hang for a few good reasons. I'm not willing to give that up in order to achieve a smoother running machine or achieve the right hit for shading/cloring. I just prefer a smoother hit at a longer stroke length for shading/coloring. Or Lining for that matter, but it's worth putting up w/ the vibrations because of it's superiority as a liner at 3.6mm. The 4mm stroke is a bit too much for this particular machine.

IMO you need 2 liners, one finesse liner (smaller configurations and easy-to-tattoo/delicate areas - ex. the calf/top of foot) and one w/ some balls for tough areas. This one has balls.

P.S. Invest in some 1" SS Grips. Weight distribution and balance is incomparable and it really kills a lot of the vibes.

4- MotorBolt system with 1/4 turn lock and release.
Brilliant!!! This would be the end all be all if the Halos were my preference for coloring/shading. Not much need for different stroke length motors for me though because I stick w/ the 3.6mm for everything.

5- Capability of the machine to be sprayed directly with disinfectant or autoclaved.
Like I said, super easy to wipe down. I still spray disinfectant into a paper towel before wiping it down though so as to avoid getting it in the slide mechanism. And I have yet to autoclave it. Nice option but not that practical for me.

6- Anything else you may want to say about the machine.
Unfortunately this seems to be a finicky machine to get running correctly or at least consistently from one Halo to the next. I'm gathering from my experience and some other posts that getting the slide to fit each individual machine properly is a challenge. I'm on my 3rd version of the same Halo machine body. Immediately after purchasing it I had to send it back because it vibrated so much that it spattered all over and was uncomfortable to hold. It ended up that the slide was loose. FKI replaced it free of charge of course. The 2nd incarnation of the machine worked good for awhile but the motor began bogging down a good deal and progressively ran slower and slower until it was useless and produced extremely low torque. It was again fixed free of charge by the good folks at FKI and the motor was replaced for good measure. The cause of it's failure was cited as a misaligned bearing? Anyway, the machine is running well now but it has a different sound and feel than the last two versions. The needles frequently stop in the down position now. It feels like the return spring is having to work too hard. But other than that it runs well so fuck it, I'm content w/ it enough to where I'm not gonna send it back AGAIN.

7- Customer Service and anything we could to better assist you.
Customer service w/ this company is top notch. Quick friendly responses every time and they'll go above and beyond to make things right for you. This is a company w/ good ethics. I feel that they truly do their best to make you happy.


Thank you for your feedback :)

[vodu]

finally I have mine! can't wait to use it! so far so good!

Envoyé depuis mon GT-I9100 avec Tapatalk

[bmerck11]

my white halo might be my new everyday liner, its that dam good!

[fkirons]

Brian Post some pics if you can. I just have that one picture that Kayleigh took.

[serial1313]

my white halo might be my new everyday liner, its that dam good! Did you paint it or what?

[vodu]

Gaston, do you have a CPS/Volt chart of spektra halo?

[fkirons]

Gaston, do you have a CPS/Volt chart of spektra halo?
CPS or Hertz do not apply to rotaries as the circuit is constant. SO whatever the machine throws at you ignore it but you should see cycle being close to 99 or 0.
Regarding voltage, I say anywhere from 5-12V. 8.5 being the happy medium. enjoy!

[bmerck11]

Will do Gaston, @serial1313 I had it duracoated white then sent in and tuned by the man himself....he hooked it up thanks again bro. And I don't know if Jimmy Schlotterhausen is on here, but a shout out for painting it for nothing! Thanks a mill for getting me this cool one off halo

[serial1313]

Jimmy is "jesoner79" on here. Is that who Duracoated your Halo white?

[vodu]

[QUOTE=fkirons;77482]CPS or Hertz do not apply to rotaries as the circuit is constant. SO whatever the machine throws at you ignore it but you should see cycle being close to 99 or 0.
Regarding voltage, I say anywhere from 5-12V. 8.5 being the happy medium. enjoy![/QUOTE

well, i´m curious to know for example, how many strokes per second it goes by each 1 volt, between 8 - 12, the cycles get faster as more volts you put on P.S. right? for example, for lining lots of artists prefer like 120cps, for packing 80-90 and shading between both....like, it´s good to know how many volts you need to achieve in halo to do the same as the old coils each one use....for example, if I use my liner at 120 cps what is needed to put in the PS for the same results?

[tattood]

im pretty sure ud just find out a RPM at a certain volt and divide by 60 for example 8000rpm would be 8000/60= 133 per second

[vodu]

so far, so good, but still no info of how many rpms per volts... :)

Envoyé depuis mon GT-I9100 avec Tapatalk

[tattood]

ur right i dont think its really possible to even measure the exact rpm kinda a ball park figure epecially when its loaded so many variables to consider

[vodu]

actually there is some ways to measure, by a laser meter... you can measure the rpm of motor or the stroke of the body...the stroke is more precise...

Envoyé depuis mon GT-I9100 avec Tapatalk

[tattood]

damn i woodnt even no where to get one.. it wood be cool if the builders did kinda put out a rpm to volt kind thing with there machines

[vodu]

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Digital-Laser-Photo-Non-Contact-Tachometer-RPM-Test-/321096049182?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item4ac2d0e21e
something like that.....I think It´s a good idea to know each machine how many cps is doing by certain amount of volts for example, If my spektra do x in 8.5 volts my stigmas do the same in 9.3 volts for example...sometimes is a pain to feel the machines because of diferent system, noise and type of give, so have a chart of each machine I think it´s a good thing to know

[bmerck11]

1804018041here are a couple pics for ya gaston

[tattood]

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Digital-Laser-Photo-Non-Contact-Tachometer-RPM-Test-/321096049182?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item4ac2d0e21e
something like that.....I think It´s a good idea to know each machine how many cps is doing by certain amount of volts for example, If my spektra do x in 8.5 volts my stigmas do the same in 9.3 volts for example...sometimes is a pain to feel the machines because of diferent system, noise and type of give, so have a chart of each machine I think it´s a good thing to know

thats pretty kool im considering getting one to experiment if i do ill post my findings

[fkirons]

1804018041here are a couple pics for ya gaston

Damn ma I wish white anodize could be affordable! White anodize exist but it's pretty expensive and not too many people have experience with it or make it.

[vodu]

Used 3.6 today to packing....I'm sold, trading one of my hypers v3s soon for another halo...


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD

[Sage Oz]

I wanted to thank Kayleigh for the awesome asap customer service getting out new cams and lube to us at our shop:)

[vodu]

Gaston, you sir, made a very well made machine...it´s too easy to work with her.I´m in love with mine...packed this today with my 3.6:

[fkirons]

I wanted to thank Kayleigh for the awesome asap customer service getting out new cams and lube to us at our shop:)
We strive to ttake good care of our customers. I'm glad you are a happy one!

[fkirons]

Gaston, you sir, made a very well made machine...it´s too easy to work with her.I´m in love with mine...packed this today with my 3.6:
Thank you. Nice piece you have going on in there. Enjoy it and tag us on Facebook and Instagram @FKIRONS

[crabink]

Gaston, any idea when my halo will show up? ordered it a few days ago..
Also, you ever thought of making a steel tube line... would be nice to see someone with your precision and genius make some sick stainless steel tubes.
I always use steel tubes with a small 5/8 diameter barrell, and i slide a fat grenade grip from lucky's over em... so they are light weight, sturdy and fat...
easiest way to get fat grips with low weight and low vibration.
I hate disposables.. I only use em for putting in white.

[crabink]

Halo out of the box
This is a mini review of the Halo pre-tattoo. In other words a technical review of everything except tattooing with it, which will come later.

First impressions was that it is smaller than I thought, which was a good thing. Very lite obviously and well made.
The armature nipple is the perfect diameter, sometimes they make the nipple to large and I got to fight to get grommets on. (yes i still use grommets, fucking condemn me.)
The position of the nipple plate as if pertains to the linear placement of the needle down the tube is perfect, fucking slam dunk.
The vise tube is amazing.. so damn simple, yet so damn perfect..
Running the machine with the 3.6 OOB it was really quiet and very low vibration around 7-8.5 volts.
I played with the give and realized that the threading on the give screwl is very tight, with a lot of thread layers, which means a lot of range for the give.
You can actually open the give around 8 - 9 full complete 360 turns before it comes off.
And the fact that the give knob stem secures the armature in place with the give spring around it is pretty smart.
As I ran the machine and played with the give from tight no give to 6 open turns I found that the give system is unique because it allows a wide range of give with no hit loss... this machine won't bog like a v3 or prodigy.
In my opinion it's like the perfect direct drive when tight and then you can fine tune the direct drive type of hit so that it dampens, instead of gives like a coil machine (which it is not, so that's good.
Glad to see someone design a machine with rotary hit and rotary give in mind and not worry about trying to emulate a coil give.
Can tell that hundreds of hours of testing went into this design.
The only problem I had was the position of the rubber band posts.. wish it was a 1/4 lower.. in the future perhaps 2 or 3 stems kind of like a rib cage on each side to choose the perfect height for the rubber band placement.
Or perhaps an adjustable sliding side post system... or just 3 or 4 holes on each side and you place a peg or slide bar where you want it.
I like my rubber bands as low as possible so mags don't flap around. I mean how hard would it be to accommodate a few different rubber band heights... to me this is a big deal.

Overall 9.75 out of 10

Best technically designed rotary I ever owned so far... A must have no matter what for any rotary user, or tattooer period.

Post tattoo review coming soon, because I got a sexy ass Mexican girl coming in for a tattoo below the panty line in 3 hours for a cover up.. and she is fucking smoking hot. God I hate my job... lol

[crabink]

ok post tattoo review..

Ummm... she was smoking hot... lol

[tattood]

ok post tattoo review..

Ummm... she was smoking hot... lol

crab what did u think of the halo?

[crabink]

It literally has no give lol... i mean the amount of force it takes to get the give to raise even with 4 to 5 full turns out is more force than I would ever use tattooing.. so like I said.. its basically a DD for me.... but that being said.. I like DD machines and the ink flew in.. machine was quiet and smooth..no vibration at all with my steel tubes, 5/8 barell, all surrounded by a fat silicone grenade grip from lucky's tattoo supply.

Since I learned how to use rotaries I don't care to much if a machine has give... too much give like with a Prodigy or Dragonfly can cause float and not enough saturation, but they have a place in an arsenal for sure.

So it's pretty sweet. I plan on using it a lot...

One thing for sure.. this machine is made way better than the Prodigy... that machine has side to side sway on the nipple.. the bolt wasn't secured well and if u hit it, it would come loose... fuck that machine. Had a great give system but that's about it.

really happy with the Halo... colors fast and solid.. i'll post some tat pics when i get a fat piece in the next few days.

I'm sure Gaston has a softer model in the works... If he had a softer model he would have the market sown up... I mean he can make a direct drive if he wants to .. but the Halo hits hard and it pretty much fills that spot in my opinion, plus its adjustable. I don't think to many hard core Halo users open the give at all... or care too lol

[mattmillerink]

Tattoo review

So it has almost no give? Surprising because I was under the impression that it was significant due to word of mouth and the "no-give halo request" thread on this forum. Also a lil disappointing because that's what I was looking forward too. I intended to make it super soft for BnG and then turn it up for color. I guess I'll still have to see for myself no matter what anyway cause I wont know how it feels until I try it.

[mystweave]

The Halo has heaps of give, as much as you could ever want :) I've been using my Halo's exclusively for over 5 months now, sold all my coils, this machine does everything with ease, is super slick and refined and has just made my general tattooing day easier, just plug and play :)

[Eturnus]

Well at first i didnt like it cause it hit way too hard. but it loosened up a bit and thats when i really started liking it.

[crabink]

I am not saying it has no give..... just not as much as the V3 or Prodigy.. it has give, but only when i turn it 5- or 6 good turns.. any more and the that and when I would run it the give cap would start to vibrate loser and loser opening up the give more and more on its own.

Maybe the spring gets looser and looser as time goes on...maybe a good break in session will do it...

[crabink]

ok... i think they lubed this bitch way to much... i took all the lube off of the give cap threading inside and out and I think maybe the self loosening problem has stopped... that being said it would be nice to have 2 or 3 shorter sized springs to change in the machine so that you can get more give with less turns.. I am sure Gaston play tested this machine and figured this is the perfect sized spring, and it might be... This is a game of utter millimeters. I actually think 2 or 3 coils less would be perfect because I have to give it 4 complete 360 turns before I notice even the slightest change from hard to medium give 3 more turns and we are there with a little more give... Now keep in mind 8 full turns and the cap comes off. I know you don't need a lot of give on a rotary, just a little to take the edge off. I know compared to coil give it's a different beast all together. And I am not even going in that direction (been there done that, learned a lot)

However, I would love to find a way to make the threading of the give cap tighter and more sturdy so it doesn't unwind itself ever again.... because I will be using this machine with 5-7 turns of give I am sure and I don't want to worry about the cap changing even the slightest position while I am tattooing, or coming off all together.

Is there something like a lube or oil that you can actually put on threading to make it a little tacky?

Because I want the give setting to stay right were I set it. I mean am I wrong to expect any less?

[Guzumaki]

I believe gaston mentioned somewhere you could clip off a coil or two on the spring for more give, but I also remember talk of a spring set that will be available soon. Im holding off for that, as I like to have mine turned out almost all the way as well. I've never had an issue with it unscrewing though. Another thing I've noticed is the give became slightly more responsive after multiple sessions breaking it in, but still doesn't seem to be just where I want it. Maybe I haven't figured it out yet and need to spend more time feeling its character..I must say though everything so far has healed beautifully! Using this on my leg was definitely intimidating at first..

[joelhague]

crabink cut a small piece of teflon tape and wrap it around the threads then put the cap back on it only takes abotu 1.5 wraps just enough to hold the tape on too much and the cap wont fit, but it keeps that thing nice and solid it will never turn on you again!

[crabink]

yeah teflon was my first guess... ill do that .. jut hope they sell black teflon tape so i will remain murdered out lol

[crabink]

i found some shit called ninja black teflon.. using white for now and fixed the problem, but gonna change to the ninja black when it arrives.... got all the give I want now

[crabink]

Ok.. so back to my Halo review.... I did large session on a octopus attacking a great white shark half sleeve i been working on... and tried the 4mm stroke and was rock hard the whole time... balls were all bunched up close to the root of my shaft ready to spurt the whole time... literally walked through the whole piece, one pass, blending here and there, with a curved 13 bugpin mag... I lined with it at 4mm as well and it was super clean. Definitely my new color machine and liner... really shined around 8 -8.3 volts... Had like 4 turns of give going... such a nice give system over all.... it's true rotary give... not an spongy regurgitation of coil give, which can often be to weak on a rotary machine because of a rotaries unique impregnation style. Ran my RW ID with a 8 round for little detail.

True winner... Halo is an absolute must have... I sold my Prodigy to get one and I am glad i did... An american made machine with all the tech support I ever wanted... Rock Hard!!!!

Going to buy another one so I have a 4mm just for lining and coloring and run a 3.2 for everything else *rubbing my hands together fiendishly in anticipation.*

[Hurtu]

Waiting on Halo anyday now, can't wait for review and comparison to Dragonfly, "give" , Capo, bLack and gRey, and overall performance.

[Bustr]

I am a happy new owner of the halo. I purchased the 4.0mm stroke bearing. I without trying the stock 3.2mm stroke I had tried the 4.0 for lining....not what I was looking for. I had realized it was awesome for packing. so I had swapped it back to the stock 3.2 because I had bout the halo to be my new liner. OVERLY IMPRESSED. I had liked my coil for more intricate detail line work but after using the halo.... I knew I could never go back. I will be purchasing another halo and putting the 4.0mm stroke bearing to use. god I love this machine!
thumbs up fk irons for such a kick ass rotary!!!!

[fkirons_kayleigh]

Enjoy the machines! If you ever need any assistance feel free to get in touch :)

[tatu richie]

amazing customer service. top notch and just wow all around machines, very well done homie

[bluerocker]

well I finally got me hands on a halo,,,,,figured 31 pages of reviews cant be bad,,,, mother of jesus I have been missing out,,,, opened the box and I was like shit is there something missing its that's small!!! only have 3.2 ,,, but I want more....more...MORE!!!!!

[(Opted Out)]

I cant wait to get mine.. Hopefully it will turn up in the next few days!.. It has the 2.5 cam but will be ordering the 3.2 or the 3.6 for it but cant decide which one any reccomendations anyone? Gaston?.. Want it mainly for colour.. possibly b&g maybe even try it for lining..

[Eturnus]

Color your best bet is to get the 3.6mm bearing or the 4mm one. I use my three dot(3.6) almost exclusively even for bng I have the 2.5, and 3.2.

[tatu richie]

this thread is gigantic

[DCtattoos07]

Been reading it for two days on and off lol

[Eturnus]

this thread is gigantic

A world class machine will do that to you.

[crabink]

Just got my second Halo via trade for my V3 and I am pretty sure that I will be using the 2.5 for grey wash and the 4 mm for everything else... if the 2.5 is not what I want I will stick to the 3.2 stroke wheel..
Did a koi fish bng piece with it last week and worked great... i did like 4-5 passes on the water waves and the thing is already healed lol ... so much less trauma.

I always start out around 7 volts and run it soft with firm pressure and adjust from there... and when I find the vibration i want then I add some give if I need to.... give is not really to important with rotary

[slicksteel]

3.6 rocks for linework -a bit less vibration and noise then the 4.0

[vodu]

best machine ever, at least for me

[DCtattoos07]

My spektra ran fine for the first couple of tattoos I used it, and for some reason it started vibrating more and making rattling noises. I added some lube like the video said to no avail. How much and where do i send it for repair?

[vodu]

My spektra ran fine for the first couple of tattoos I used it, and for some reason it started vibrating more and making rattling noises. I added some lube like the video said to no avail. How much and where do i send it for repair?
in fkirons

[fkirons_kayleigh]

I sent you a PM, but for any questions or service issues feel free to email [email protected] or call 1-855-FKIRONS. Most of the time I'll be able to help you troubleshoot via phone or email, but all machines are covered under warranty, so no need to worry about a service charge!

[Bustr]

I just saw this post on the facebook page... looks like I will be getting this ASAP!!!
https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=513068618743050&set=a.149353018447947.23312.138893722827210&type=1&theater
18955

[crabink]

my only complaint is that when i get it up to around 10 volts for lining...there is noticeable vibration....was wondering if it's just the tubes i'm using.
I am using tatsoul wrath tubes.

I couldn't imagine running this machine at 10 to line..... try 8.5 to 9 with open give and some pressure... also loose needles work the best..

[crabink]

I just saw this post on the facebook page... looks like I will be getting this ASAP!!!
https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=513068618743050&set=a.149353018447947.23312.138893722827210&type=1&theater
18955
is the grip what FK is gonna sell? ..
a t tech friendly grip?

[Bustr]

@crabink it was posted by fkirons on facebook.
here is the info they posted if you can't open the link. i am excited to buy this adapter grip and try out the Cheyenne cartridges myself.

FK Irons Hawk cartridge universal adaptor proto. We are planning to release this in two sizes 1" and 1.25" Also a version with Delrin grip which it makes the adaptor really light and a version with a bit more of weight of Aluminum. Both adaptors will have Stainless Steel Stem, internal brass bushing for precision glide of the drive bar. What do you guys think? Will be available at FKirons.com and made in the USA — with Liana Mazanashvili (https://www.facebook.com/liana35).

[aurelien]

that's pretty cool huh ! what i'd like though is more cartridges manufacturers but I don't know if Cheyenne holds a patent for it ? Specially in Europe, T-techs end up as expensive with the import.

[FactorX]

I received mine from Eikon a little over a week ago.

I've used it exclusively since (3.6)

H

I Use it for shading,.color, and linework with great results. Wonderfull and worth the money.

My only gripe is that I have noticed the slide resting in the down position when off on more than one occasion.

Customer service is great, just blows I have to send in.

[fkirons]

@crabink it was posted by fkirons on facebook.
here is the info they posted if you can't open the link. i am excited to buy this adapter grip and try out the Cheyenne cartridges myself.

FK Irons Hawk cartridge universal adaptor proto. We are planning to release this in two sizes 1" and 1.25" Also a version with Delrin grip which it makes the adaptor really light and a version with a bit more of weight of Aluminum. Both adaptors will have Stainless Steel Stem, internal brass bushing for precision glide of the drive bar. What do you guys think? Will be available at FKirons.com and made in the USA — with Liana Mazanashvili (https://www.facebook.com/liana35).

You are correct. The grip will launch in about 1 month we are currently under manufacturing right now.
The new design of the grip uses a standard bar without the ball at the top so anyone can make a plunger with a needle bar.
The plunger also glides on a bushing brass bearing that is fitted inside the tube gliding with ease.

As soon as they are ready to go we will announce them here.
It fits most cartridges out there

[vodu]

release the Kraken!!!I mean, the soft spring too!

[fkirons]

release the Kraken!!!I mean, the soft spring too! The fix for the soft spring is to just cut a loop or two on your regular and it will work great.

[MR-NME]

@ fkirons cut the give spring or the retract spring?

[vodu]

Lol, I have the same doubt


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD

[fkirons]

@ fkirons cut the give spring or the retract spring?
The give spring guys.
But remember how give works on coil machines. All you need is just a bit of flexion on the spring. Too much give can damage the skin easier as there is not enough penetration.

This is going to happen with any machines.

[mattmillerink]

Is it normal for the machine to stop in the down position every so often? Not commonly, maybe once or twice a session? Do I need to lube the slider maybe? I only got about 20 to 30 hours on it so far.

[fkirons]

Make sure you are not using too mich needle tension and that you dont have too much needle friction against the tube. If that is cleared theb take it apart clean it and relube it without abusing the oil. Then run it for 5 secs at 16 volts stop and do that again. It should be good to go. The machine will break in with use and that will diminish over time.

[mattmillerink]

You are a wise man. I usually do a slight bend close to the needles so it rides flat against the tube in case it gets bowed. It does usually happens after a while probably with build up in the tube. I'll start bending it less and I think that'll fix things

[fkirons]

You are a wise man. I usually do a slight bend close to the needles so it rides flat against the tube in case it gets bowed. It does usually happens after a while probably with build up in the tube. I'll start bending it less and I think that'll fix things

That's correct man

[crabink]

OK... continuation of my Halo venture.

I ordered a new Halo, graphite color with the new improved slider. Since I have 3 Halos now I am able to compare the difference.
My new Halo is fucking juice. It is so damn smooth. Feels like I am massaging the ink in the skin. I feel like it is a vast improvement.
And another thing I noticed is that the new give spring is shorter.... lol yes Gaston I noticed. but I still cut it down lmfao...

Sending my others in very soon and will continue using them exclusively... sold everything else..
When you way the pros and cons the Halo does it all. I use the 3.2 for black and grey and my rounds shaders, and i use the 3.6 for color and the 4mm for lining
Dragonfly's were not versatile enough by design and way overpriced. V3 is a solid machine, but limited to one stroke size.
The Prodigy's motor bolt is crap and there is to much side to side play with the nipple head.
Would say Inkjecta and the hawk are the only solid competitors that continue with innovation and design.
Yet they are DD and still limited, however the flite v2 is going the right direction with dampening bar system.

That being said I would love to see a Halo with an ego like, yet improve rubber style dampening system... that way it becomes more continuous and dependable.
A DD with adjustable dampening is the shit in my opinion and far superior to spring give. Spring give is just ok...
Remember a DD or linear style rotary machine does not need give, it needs a dampening system that slightly takes the edge off so that the saturation
remains the same, but trauma is reduced.
I know that spring give works, yet can reduce impregnation, but a rubber dampening system, its firmer and still keeps the hit, but just takes some bite out of it...
If the Ego was made of aluminum, had a pin to secure the nipple bar from coming out and had interchangeable cams, i would own 4 of em.

The Halo is the best most dependable bang for the buck, when you break down the machine you realize that this will last a long time.
It's not built to fall apart or ware out. It is easily the most versatile machine. There is no hit you cant produce and if you want to use it like a DD you can.
In fact I use mine like a DD, and if i need to take off some bite I open the give and only then.
I do dream of a rubberized give style DD Halo, but for now its perfect.
Hell even a DD style Halo with inkjekta style give bars would be sick.

Slam fucking dunk Gaston.
Oh and by the way I need 10 RPG grips ASAP

[S_Trofatter]

Ugh now I want to try the new ones super funkin bad lol! I also can't wait to get my hands on a aluminum coil machine. If I didn't have six bambinos and one on the way I woulda bought some a long time ago!!

[cagelavey]

damn Gaston told me to read this thread, didn't know it would take me two hours to do it though!, lmao. very informative. so excited for when I get mine now, and am kind of glad im just doing so. with all the changes and new cart grip system, etc. f**king kid at Christmas, homies!

[sacredsouls]

So I got my halo and I have used it one a few tattoos.

I love this thing. So far I have lined withit and done some color shading with it. Lines like a laser in one pass. And puts the color in just right but can still feather stuff out.

I got a 3.2 stroke I was told it had the new slider in it. I started with a disposable on the first time lining and it vibrates quite a bit. I used ss on the shading and the lining today. It still vibrates but not as bad. Do the new ones vibrate and the old ones shook? I am just curious because I have been reading how smooth the new sliders are and mine is not smooth.

[serial1313]

So I got my halo and I have used it one a few tattoos.

I love this thing. So far I have lined withit and done some color shading with it. Lines like a laser in one pass. And puts the color in just right but can still feather stuff out.

I got a 3.2 stroke I was told it had the new slider in it. I started with a disposable on the first time lining and it vibrates quite a bit. I used ss on the shading and the lining today. It still vibrates but not as bad. Do the new ones vibrate and the old ones shook? I am just curious because I have been reading how smooth the new sliders are and mine is not smooth. Contact Kayliegh from FK on here & they will make it right.

[sacredsouls]

Gaston already pm'd me and gave me a check lost of stuff to do.

[fkirons]

Gaston already pm'd me and gave me a check lost of stuff to do.
Even easier call me on my cell I just PM you my number :)

[serial1313]

Less than 8 minutes huh, that's pretty good.

[sacredsouls]

I am blown away by his customer service. Outstanding. Things like this make the world go round.

Just to clarify I am not complaining whatsoever I was just curious. It might just be that this machines weighs less than half what any of my other machines do and I can just feel it more. It is also possible it is normal vibrations and I don't have another halo to compare it to.

[DougHardy]

Well, I jumped on the Spektra train and ordered mine this past sunday when there was a sale going on and it just came in the mail today. As has been said before, the engineering is really slick on this little machine! The fit and finish are great, the tension knob is really easy to adjust and I love the fact that the drive pin always stops in the 'up' position so there is no needle hang when the machine is off. I've only run it with a tube and dry needle on the heel of my hand, and it seems like it's going to be a pleasure to use! BUT- I have a problem: the machine bolt has a very, very small lock-twist (around 2mm) and this makes it very easy for the machine to actually twist and fall off when I turn the machine a certain direction. Is this normal? I thought the bolt-lock would be a bit more sure, and I'm wondering if I received a defective unit. I don't want to struggle with the bolt dropping off the body in the middle of a tattoo.

Edit: man it sure is pretty!

21308

[serial1313]

Well, I jumped on the Spektra train and ordered mine this past sunday when there was a sale going on and it just came in the mail today. As has been said before, the engineering is really slick on this little machine! The fit and finish are great, the tension knob is really easy to adjust and I love the fact that the drive pin always stops in the 'up' position so there is no needle hang when the machine is off. I've only run it with a tube and dry needle on the heel of my hand, and it seems like it's going to be a pleasure to use! BUT- I have a problem: the machine bolt has a very, very small lock-twist (around 2mm) and this makes it very easy for the machine to actually twist and fall off when I turn the machine a certain direction. Is this normal? I thought the bolt-lock would be a bit more sure, and I'm wondering if I received a defective unit. I don't want to struggle with the bolt dropping off the body in the middle of a tattoo.

Edit: man it sure is pretty!

21308 It sounds like it might be missing an O-ring that fits around the motor bolt(where the motor meets the machine body). I have never had a motor-bolt that didn't stay in place. Mine always fit nice & snug.

[tatu richie]

this thread is fucking massive man geez

[DougHardy]

It sounds like it might be missing an O-ring that fits around the motor bolt(where the motor meets the machine body). I have never had a motor-bolt that didn't stay in place. Mine always fit nice & snug.

The O-Ring is there, but the lock turn is very, very short. I just saw the video from last year showing the Halo's final design ( http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Hea0xUh35g0 ) and the machine-bolt turns MUCH more in that video than my unit's bolt does. :/

[serial1313]

PM "fkirons" on here. That is Gaston. Or "Kayliegh" on here. They will take care of you. It might just need a bigger O-ring. I understand what you are saying about the turn being short though. It might NOT be an O-ring.

[DougHardy]

Agghh, ok IGNORE my earlier problem: I'm back at work and found that the O-Ring was slightly off, preventing a good lock. I just moved it into place and all it perfect with the Halo now. That'll teach me to not look close enough at all parts of the device before making some noise. :p

[serial1313]

Agghh, ok IGNORE my earlier problem: I'm back at work and found that the O-Ring was slightly off, preventing a good lock. I just moved it into place and all it perfect with the Halo now. That'll teach me to not look close enough at all parts of the device before making some noise. :p Well, @ least there wasn't a real problem.

[o60minmano]

I love my Halo, and i wanted try using the ttech system with variable results. I removed the spring and the machine becomes very loud and mechanical sounding. The sliding mechanism seems to be extremly loose to the point that i am worried to even run it without the spring. So i just run it with the spring and its adequate....dont want to have to buy a new motor prematurely though. I also had the pin that the needle is seated on fall out, i replaced it but kinda on the skeptical side about using the ttechs with halo now


How to run Cartdriges systems on your Spektra Halo.


The "Slider" has a pre defined load that is achieved by the "Positioning" spring. This spring retracts the slider so the needle can hide inside your tube when the motor is off.


The normal startup voltage of a spectra is around 5-7 volts depending on several parameters.


The Hawk and T tech Cartridges have a built in "in cartridge spring or elastic" that retracts the needle.
You can understand this principal by "pushing in" the pin that drives the needle in the cartridge system.


The spring in the cartridge system is doing exactly what the "Positioning Spring" in the slider is doing: Retracts the needle when motor stops.


I've noticed that the spring tension of the spring or elastic found in most cartridges is greater than the tension of the Spektras Positioning spring. Probably twice as the tensile strength of the Spektra's "Positioning Spring"


Therefore, by removing the "Positioning Spring" off your Spektra you will allow "just" the spring in the cartridge system do the job of retracting slider and needle.


What Happen if you don't remove the "Positioning Spring" off your Spektra?


If you don't remove that spring the motor will have to fight double or triple the load (achieve by the multiple combination of springs)


Conclusion:
As soon as you remove that front spring off, the Spektra Halo is ready to perform flawless with T-tech or hawk.
The machine will run naturally starting at the normal 6v average voltage and you should see a smooth response by smaller increment of voltage.


Should you have any questions let me know. I may start a new thread with this info, since A LOT of people flooded my inbox since we release the Spektra.
I will also update this on our site ;)

[sacredsouls]

The armature pin should not fall out if you have the give pin in it. There is really no way for it to come out. I use my halo without the stay up spring all the time and it fine. Which spring are you taking out? There is the back spring which is for give and the front spring for stay up.


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[hellraiser6662]

Sounds like he's taken out the top spring. Not pulled the slide out and found the bottom return spring.

Sent from my LT26i using Tapatalk

[fkirons_kayleigh]

If you'd like you can email pictures/ video of exactly what's going on to [email protected]. The machines will run fine with t-tech's with the positioning/ stay up spring removed so I'm sure it's just something simple, but I'm more than happy to help you out!


I love my Halo, and i wanted try using the ttech system with variable results. I removed the spring and the machine becomes very loud and mechanical sounding. The sliding mechanism seems to be extremly loose to the point that i am worried to even run it without the spring. So i just run it with the spring and its adequate....dont want to have to buy a new motor prematurely though. I also had the pin that the needle is seated on fall out, i replaced it but kinda on the skeptical side about using the ttechs with halo now

[Bishopbyname]

I'm getting a Spektra delivered tomorrow! Cannot wait! The size of this thread and all the great things said about them is great testimony to the machine.

[fkirons_kayleigh]

I'm getting a Spektra delivered tomorrow! Cannot wait! The size of this thread and all the great things said about them is great testimony to the machine.

I hope you enjoy it! If you have any questions when it arrives don't hesitate to get in touch! :)

[Bishopbyname]

I hope you enjoy it! If you have any questions when it arrives don't hesitate to get in touch! :)

Thank you Kayleigh, i will.

[Lizzy]

Hey there, I'm Lizzy.Ive been using the Halo now for two weeks, and like everyone else, Im hooked and amazed beyond belief. I never thought I would be able to use this without much of a learning curve. Because of all of you who have shared your experience with the Halo along with settings, techniques....I was able to glean from that and apply that to my own style. I only do cosmetic tattooing. Initially I took a 6 month apprenticeship with a traditional tattoo artist who owned a shop. To have that opportunity to watch everyone in the shop tattoo was something we just don't have in the permanent makeup industry. I've been using a coil for 7 yrs. 5 yrs ago someone gave me a neotat ( a coil user also) I didn't have the patients at the time to learn a new tool so I passed it along to another friend. I went from my first machine a heavy ass brass machine from Paco Rollins, then to his steels. I quickly started having hand trouble. Working on the face your pretty cramped up. I found Gaston and have been using his aluminum shaders ever since. Ive had this rotary in my tool box since Christmas and since finding this message board and hours of reading posts, I decided to give it a run. Need I say anything else?! I remember someone describing the feeling of using the Halo as "massaging" the skin. I did a set of lips Saturday and that is what it was like. Now I want to sell all of my coils before their obsolete.;) Thanks again all for sharing. P.S Anyone interested in good deal on some coils? ha

[dpadgett]

I picked up a Halo this weekend at the Detroit convention and I'm itching to try her out. I looking to improve my black and gray work, I feel that since switching to rotaries it's not as soft and smooth. This will be my first rotary with give, so are there any suggestions for smooth black and gray work as far as the give adjustments?

[Wonderland]

I picked up a Halo this weekend at the Detroit convention and I'm itching to try her out. I looking to improve my black and gray work, I feel that since switching to rotaries it's not as soft and smooth. This will be my first rotary with give, so are there any suggestions for smooth black and gray work as far as the give adjustments?
Run the machine with the give knob all the way out and slow it down a bit may be 7.5 volts

[dpadgett]

Right on, I'll give that a shot. Thanks

[fkirons_kayleigh]

Hey, thanks for stopping by the booth! If you have any questions once you try it out feel free to shoot me an email [email protected], and I'll be more than happy to help :)


I picked up a Halo this weekend at the Detroit convention and I'm itching to try her out. I looking to improve my black and gray work, I feel that since switching to rotaries it's not as soft and smooth. This will be my first rotary with give, so are there any suggestions for smooth black and gray work as far as the give adjustments?

[sacredsouls]

I do black and grey with the 2.5 cam the give locked all the way down so no give at 8 volts.


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[Jvoid]

Awesome machine. Had previously used my 2 Neotat Vivace machines for all shading and color. Hate to admit that they have taken a back seat to my Halo. (have the 4.0 throw) From packing to color to smooth B&G is a very versatile machine. Still love my Neotat's but am very happy with my halo.

[rjiggy]

Hey all,
My Halos have recently gone noisy. I have two (signed) pre-production and two regular "labeled" machines. The two pre-productions have always been my fav. They are quiet and smooth. There was a small bit of incompatibility getting the motors to fit between the pre and regular release machines, so they wnt back to G for a fix. That was about a year ago... All has been great! Until the last couple weeks, the machines have gone quite noisy --almost coil noisy. Cant stand it!
I have taken them apart, cleaned, re-lubed, no change. What has happened and what can I do??? How often should the springs be changed???

Thnkx

[cagelavey]

I noticed that the armature pin in my halo has a lil back and forth in it if you push it from side to side, and that machine is quite a bit louder than my other machine where the armature pin is snug. try pushing your armature pin from side to side and see if there is any play, if so youll pry have to send it in, just an idea

[fkirons]

Hey all,
My Halos have recently gone noisy. I have two (signed) pre-production and two regular "labeled" machines. The two pre-productions have always been my fav. They are quiet and smooth. There was a small bit of incompatibility getting the motors to fit between the pre and regular release machines, so they wnt back to G for a fix. That was about a year ago... All has been great! Until the last couple weeks, the machines have gone quite noisy --almost coil noisy. Cant stand it!
I have taken them apart, cleaned, re-lubed, no change. What has happened and what can I do??? How often should the springs be changed???

Thnkx

Get in touch with us and we'll get you squared away. It could be front spring got sloppy, slider worn off or a combination of both. Email us at [email protected]. We'll be happy to assist you.


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[rjiggy]

Thanks so much for the replies and sorry for my delay. I have been busy kicking ass with the new Direkt this week! I will contact. Thanks again G!

[fkirons]

Thanks so much for the replies and sorry for my delay. I have been busy kicking ass with the new Direkt this week! I will contact. Thanks again G!

Enjoy it


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[johndameart]

Any questions regarding repair or even if it may seem like a silly question, email them, they are all always willing to help with anything :)

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[Panos tattoo]

ok,after reading 37 pages and hundreds of posts i believe i can ask my question.:)
for an artist who uses conventonal shaders (100-110hz) on coil machines which cam is better to use ? and for atists like mewho use cutback shaders(130-140hz) is the best option the 2.5 cam? also does the volts change dramaticaly with different cams? most people said 8-10V in their post for 3.2-3.6cams if i remember well.
im asking for opinions and advices because i dont like gambling with peoples skin.any advice is appreciated.