PDA

View Full Version : New silver centri owner



mrbudgie
07-10-2012, 03:14 PM
Hello All

would appreciate some starting voltages for the new centri machines for black and grey shading, colour packing and blending. and any other useful settings.
power supply is cx2

cheers guys

darkness
07-10-2012, 03:21 PM
hi ... 4-5 v for lining , around 6 -7 v for color packing and blending

Sage Oz
07-10-2012, 03:50 PM
I run around 5.5 - 7 volts, depending on needle size and how the skin is taking it.
I haven't lined with it yet...

Sent from a galaxy far, far away...

Cyberitual
07-10-2012, 03:52 PM
5.5-6.5 should be able to achieve anything your looking for. Lining same thing just alittle more tension on the band

Sage Oz
07-10-2012, 11:18 PM
Okay I finally lined with my Centri today bold 8round at 7volts did the trick. Took a sec to get the feel but it worked quite nice:)


Sent from a galaxy far, far away...

mrbudgie
07-12-2012, 05:55 PM
Had ago on centri today, felt like tattooing for the first time hahaha.
Started at about 5.5 going upto 6. Seemed a little slower and shortened stroke so when machine was static needle were square with tip and not too much coming out when running.was using a 08 11 bugpin mag.

saturation was not too bad but not as heavy ink placement as I am used to with my coil.

Want to get it running close to my coil shader/packer which runs between 95 to 105 htz (depending on how clean contact screw is lol) its got very short throw so short that when setup the needle is showing and I use the upwards compression to not snag. Normally about 4.5 to 5.5 v for black and grey so it bogs down and 6 to 6.5 for packing. So just need to get me centri working similar

Let the fun begin haha

Cyberitual
07-12-2012, 11:50 PM
How was your rubber band setup? Sounds like it had alot of tension on it.

Sage Oz
07-12-2012, 11:55 PM
I always use just one band


Sent from a galaxy far, far away...

Stripe
07-13-2012, 11:19 AM
I have been using 2 types of bands I'll use on mine. I have a thin one that helps it run a longer stroke and harder stroke, a stiff band that lets it run real soft with a shorter stroke.
Playing with the tube placement was the hardest thing to learn when I first got going with the Centri. After I figured that out it runs like a champ.

mrbudgie
07-14-2012, 05:41 PM
bit shy about posting pics on here after seeing some of the cracking stuff in the galleries here. Did the shading and colour on this today with the centri still getting used to it, but it does seem temperamental in the stroke length and speed not sure if its the stroke adjuster playing up, it spends most of the time on a nice zappy short throw with just right amount of puch but then sometimes goes to a bigger floppier throw with less speed and grunt tried getting a vid of it

heres the vid, had to record it from one phone to next to get it to the pc hahaha
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lcbjTfPPEJI

http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e234/mrbudgie/Untitled-1.jpg

Cyberitual
07-14-2012, 08:24 PM
I gonna make a new video I think, there is not enough info on how to operate in its normal fashion and I'm sorry for that. If you centri speeds up there not enough tension on the needle. The side grooves are for extra small bands not your primary band location. That area is to close to the needle bar for tension support. Using that placement will let the motor spin without capturing the full centrifugal force. In a sence the weight is spinning so fast it can't pull in Etheir direction. The more tension on the bar the more the weight will react to g forces in return giving you the correct stroke. Running your centri to fast will defeat the purpose of capturing the gforce we are looking for. I'm gonna make a whole new video making this technology more understandable and stress more that this not your typical rotary...

mrbudgie
07-14-2012, 08:37 PM
so if I say stick a second band on it it will get a larger stroke is that correct

Cyberitual
07-14-2012, 08:51 PM
Use your band through the front hole down and around your Rca. So the band is farther from the armature bar

Cyberitual
07-14-2012, 09:13 PM
sorry just saw video of your stroke. My cell phone couldnt display it. The longer stroke in the video is the normal stroke you want. the shorter faster stroke is caused from not enough tension or it can also happin at high voltage. The faster that weight spins with no tension on it, it will find a natural distance it can rotate back in forth. When tension is applied you dissrupt this natural zone and your capture alot of centrifugal force. Creating a beautiful hit and stroke. There is band setup that is real quick and puts your band right up to the tip of the tub for maximum support and tension. I will post that aswell as the others in the video i make tonight.

mrbudgie
07-14-2012, 09:19 PM
cheers mike look forward to seeing video,

ps so far enjoying it,

hellraiser6662
07-19-2012, 10:42 PM
yep just got my centri from throwhammers its black and its number 19... but yea havent got a clue how to run it so get the vid up, so i can see if i set it up ok, i'll have a play tomorrow had a read though so im getting a feel for volts settings ... fun times

mrbudgie
08-02-2012, 03:42 PM
still struggling to keep any consistency from the centri, when its running straight its cracking but then it goes out of sink, cant get any change at all from the stroke adjuster, and the armature seems to want to be in a more upright position when not on with means its starts to tap frame when running, and lastly what way do you guys have the inner plate, any pics would be good and vids of yours running close up of the stroke

cheers all

reigningink
08-04-2012, 06:01 AM
I had some issues like you are having. I had sprayed a bit of oil in mine. Later found out that was stopping the mechanism that allows the stroke adjuster to work. That same mechanism is what returns the armature to its neutral position. If your armature is in the up position when not running that internal piece may be worn down, broken, or slipping. Just my experience. I'm sure the guys at Centro can help ya troubleshoot. They are awesome.

mrbudgie
08-04-2012, 09:05 PM
cheers mate, just dont wanna have to send it back, MIKE YOU NEED A EXPERT BASED IN UK hahaha

reigningink
08-04-2012, 10:29 PM
That inner plate that has the rubber wedge on it is what I'm talking about. It applies force to the motor assembly. That in turn keeps the pivoting action of the motor and armature within a certain range. It is what keeps the movement both up and down equal distances from its resting position. If it is not working right then the armature may be able to travel further in one direction (up or down) than the other. This inequality of movement is what throws of its rythem nd causes it to run inconsistently. At least that's what was causing mine to. Hope this helps.

mrbudgie
08-05-2012, 08:16 AM
There isn't any rubber on the inner metal parts. There is the plate and the little wedge shaped metal screwed to the spring

Cyberitual
08-05-2012, 01:49 PM
In our video it shows the plates in position. If you have opened it up you have to make sure the armature bar is verticle when placing the top back on. It should never hit the frame, Is your foam in it? Cause that would keep it from hitting the frame which makes me think if it is in there then the motor was not in its correct position when the top was put back on.

mrbudgie
09-04-2012, 02:44 PM
finally seem to be getting hang of this machine, guess was just used to running my coils and giveless rotaries on short stroke and nippy speeds, since getting daring and using more needle it seems to tattoo better

Sage Oz
09-05-2012, 03:08 AM
I set it up with a lot of overhang, took a second to figure out that it retracts to mid stroke more or less. Also it's got a lot of give, but when you and it are in synch it works really really well.

Patrick
10-07-2012, 12:50 PM
I've got mine shipping on Monday. I can't wait!!!