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View Full Version : CX1 and liners heating up



hendricksonart.com
10-29-2012, 01:18 PM
So over the last six months Ive gone through Quite a few liners thinking that people just cant build a solid liner that will last through a whole tattoo with out heating up and changing pitch. The only liner that hasnt done it is one that I built on eight wrap full coils. Ive had liners from several big names and all acted the same. Finally I give a liner to a coworker and no problems. I do tend to be a little OCD I obsess over keeping my machines running fairly much the same for each tattoo which for the most part is easy to do. A little tiny tune every few days on my Shaders and there back to exactly the same way every time. Ive swapped My critical for an old eikon and my Liner seems to run lot better haven't tattooed enough with it to really give a proper eval. It seems that the power supply may be the problem. Its over two years so no warranty. They have been cool and offered me a discount on a new one but I can also get a great deal on an eikons products as well through a friend. The power supply seems to run fine but Ive had probably four liners heat up and slow down after about 20 mins of solid tattooing. Any one experience anything like this and which power supply do you think makes the cleanest power.

slicksteel
10-29-2012, 03:03 PM
mastech is the cleanest bro-pure power-mine pushes 6a and 30v. if you are looking for a smaller more tattoo friendly one get a talon -all these little fancy ones with small boards and meters are great for tuning a coil but ones with actual transformers in them run so much smoother and will cause less heat/spark in coils & smoother running rotarys that will get the full rated hours out of your motors. Swashdrive etc all test their machines on these types of ps.
http://www.talonpower.com/standards.htm
http://www.mastechpowersupply.com/dc-power-supply/linear-power-supply/mastech-variable-linear-power-supply-30v-6a-hy3006d/prod_4.html
also on knob ps when it wears out you can just buy a new one and solder it in your shelf if need be.also a easy clean trick is to throw a finger cot over the knob

here is were you can get the talon on ebay direct and they also sell the orignal no spring clippys everyone has copied-i have there rca and they are very good wire beter then silcone style and they will make to size
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Original-Mini-Digital-w-Foot-Clip-Cord-/370671249333?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item564dba67b5

Wonderland
10-29-2012, 03:20 PM
When I used coils and they were heating up, I replaced the capacitor and the problem went away. If you do get new capacitors make sure they are installed the right way for polarity and that you are also hooking the machine up to the clip cord to match the polarity of the capacitor as well.

slicksteel
10-29-2012, 03:41 PM
wonderland is spot on with that extra enfo for sure:)

hendricksonart.com
10-29-2012, 03:43 PM
these machines that are heating up are all brand new new clip cords etc.

hendricksonart.com
10-29-2012, 03:44 PM
thanks for the suggestions

Mozzer337
10-30-2012, 04:09 PM
I always used to experience this. With good quality coil machines too. To be fair I had a cheap PS unit, which I replaced with a CX1 funnily enough, and got an eikon footswitch and talon clipcord. And the problem seemed less apparrant but I dont think it ever fully stopped. This was one of the reasons I wanted to convert to rotary, so I had a consistent running machine without worrying about skips, dips, and general misfiring!!