pleas help me folks with ink an techneque

[devans]

Hi folks. Hear is my problem :confused: . Hear gose.

I use Kuro Sumi and mix my own washes in bottles 1/4 and 1/2 mix with WitchHazel. As ive progresed I find my miix is to dark and my 1/4 mix should probably be my dark for shading.

BUT . . . . . . I find Witch Hazel will not susspend my ink for long (the pigment sinks to the botom quick)

Sooooo . . . What would you find mixes best with pigment and what mix would you use to slowly build your shades. . . . . . . But I like KuroSumi.

Also . . . . . . .

Ive been scrubbing my shading in instead of whipping. I quite like this style but I find often it leavs two lines on the sideward motion of the circle motion ? ? ? ? Duz that make sence folks ?

All the help would be very very very welcome.

[mrbudgie]

sometimes, when your worried about you shading looking choppy sit back in your chair and looks at it from a normal perspective.

I found kurosumi didnt suit me, if i mix my own i use waverly blue bird or just get some of jimmees number 13 (trust me devs man). instead of premixing then if your worried about ink suspension just work from the caps using just water, either the drop method or fill them all with water dip black then into first empty pot and so fourth

[OwlsDen]

If you wanna go old school, a long time ago I was told to add a drop of glycerine to keep the grey wash mixed together. I don't really use it myself, but a lot of color pigments use glycerin to add some thickness to the ink. Could help. I also sometimes add some blue or white to my washes to either warm them up or cool them down, that can also help keep them from separating so quickly.

[devans]

I think its my techneque mainly. I was just wanting some input on you techneques for large blends like clouds ect

[Jaytrials]

Definitely try a couple drops of glycerin. It will help keep a workable puddle on the skin with the scrubbing motion.

[joelhague]

Use a 15 or 23 mag for the smoothest tones over large areas

[chris-in-cali]

i recently started using glycerin/witch hazel...it really does help....just a quick dip after you have loaded your tube.

[devans]

Oh . . . . So you dont mix the gliserine. . Glyserene . . . Glyserine (cant spell it) In with the Hazel you just use it to dip into ?. And I do think I need some bigger curved mags, I only have upto 15 s.

[Jaytrials]

I personally mix some up in a bottle just to keep my number of caps to a minimum but it really comes down to what works for you

[vodu]

Old school bit of (good)vodka and glycerine


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[crabink]

use talons drawing ink for your wash.... use 3 parts distilled water and one part witch hazel to cut it down... works wonders

[devans]

Rite . . . . . Ive been thinking . . . . . The tattooists at the shop I work at and also apprenticed me are old school and only whip shade and think its the only way and no other techneque is needed and all rotary machines are DDO. What im trying to say isssssssss . . . You guys are my only help.

I was doing some jap whind bars and stuff today and realised I use my fly for al my shading and then simply wash off my needles and start colour packing without adjusting anything.

See what im trying to say ?. The fly packs colour well on how its set and on 9.5v but then I try and shade on the same setting . . . . I should be using a softer posibly faster with less throw setup for soft shading shouldnt I folks.

My RW12v 3mm throw slimline . . . I aint actually tried it for shading only lines and colour. Which simply didnt work for me . . . . But I read somwhere he slimline was actualy desighned for shading . . Is this correct ? And if it is could I just ask do you run the machine fast for shading in circular/scrubbing motions with short throw. I ask cuz im used to whip shading with a slow fairly long throw machines . . . As hats all they do at the shop.

Many thanks for reading and I hope you can clear things up for me

[TattoosByRob]

I'm not sure there is one answer to your question, I use all the techniques when shading, scrubbing, whipping, consistent ovals, I guess it depends on the size of the area I'm working at the time...The best answer I could give would be just learn how to put it in with consistent pressure first, For your deepest blacks your really bearing down and for your lightest tones your barely skimming....You can achieve many different shades with just one black and using different levels of hand pressure or you can use different grades of washes and almost colour them in like you would colour...It boils down to personal preference and eventually you will develop a technique that works for you it just takes time, Shading is one of the harder things to do in tattooing....I use 3mm - 5mm throw machines to shade with and curved mags and get along with them...I've used all types of blacks and have had good results with them all so I'm not sure if the type of black matters but the one thing I've always stuck with is the "Secret Sauce" 500ml Witch Hazel (USP) 500ml Distilled Water 125ml Ethyl Alcohol (Vodka) 5ml Glycerin (Vegtable) use it as you will to premix washes or just use the drop method, either way, either black, the mix never let me down...But there is no magic formula that works for shading, Lots of drawing on paper with a pencil perhaps to understand pressure...Hope any of this helps

[devans]

Your correct rob. Quite a few questions realy . . And many more to come probably :) . Think I need to get mi legs out again. I whip shade well but I feel I need something better now for portrates ect and everyone I watch on DVD seems to just scrub in circles but mine simply look patchy in large areas. So I think less throw and more speed in my machine. BUT . . . . Im probably wrong :(

[George Long]

You could try larger neeedle groups, curved mags, and/or bugpin needles. Also, stretch the skin a bit less when you want those softer, lighter shades of graywash. Set your shader to hit a bit softer. Set up a coil machine with thinner springs or a rotary set to have more give. I hope this helps you achieve the desired effect.

[cagelavey]

as far as the double type lines you get curved mags are magic fore more even saturation and shading

[primoink]

agreed. for the price and ease just buy old lucky 13. his stuff is great. i chose to purchase his over making it myself because of price and ease. and its great stuff

[nivek]

Rite . . . . . Ive been thinking . . . . . The tattooists at the shop I work at and also apprenticed me are old school and only whip shade and think its the only way and no other techneque is needed and all rotary machines are DDO. What im trying to say isssssssss . . . You guys are my only help.

I was doing some jap whind bars and stuff today and realised I use my fly for al my shading and then simply wash off my needles and start colour packing without adjusting anything.

See what im trying to say ?. The fly packs colour well on how its set and on 9.5v but then I try and shade on the same setting . . . . I should be using a softer posibly faster with less throw setup for soft shading shouldnt I folks.

My RW12v 3mm throw slimline . . . I aint actually tried it for shading only lines and colour. Which simply didnt work for me . . . . But I read somwhere he slimline was actualy desighned for shading . . Is this correct ? And if it is could I just ask do you run the machine fast for shading in circular/scrubbing motions with short throw. I ask cuz im used to whip shading with a slow fairly long throw machines . . . As hats all they do at the shop.

Many thanks for reading and I hope you can clear things up for me

I like a really short stroke and mix in the caps. 4-5 caps and treated it like colour to start getting my blacks smoother.

Im a HUGE fan of Bluebird - one drop per cap with corresponding black drops I use 4 2 and 1 drops (more or less 5 3 1 for pieced I want darker)- and keep a clean mix at the end when on bigger pieces, so when they start to get darkened I move down a cap