Neotat vivace questions

So I recently got a neo vivace from eikon ,3.5 stroke black I have a few questions about the machine hopefully some of the experienced users can answer , so I am going by the voltages g.graves posted using 8-9 volts for color, 10v for shading and 11.5-12 v for lining, on the neotat website they explain the machine can run from 6-16 volts has anyone used it higher then 12? My machine goes from being silent then around 12 volts gets quite loud maybe a bit rattly sounding , is this normal? Also on the neotat site they mention the CPS go hand in hand with voltage , example: 9v = 90 CPS, 12v = 120 CPS
Etc , is this true? Would it not make sense to run the machine 12 volts or over for lining as it would put it in the normal liner range for CPS, I have had great results packing color and shading with this machine but seems a bit tricky for lining where others make it look like it lines like a sharpie *cough* g.graves*end cough* ;) any advice is appreciated

Alie K and JamesMonteiro on the forum have used the long stroke (3.5) machine extensively for lining. I will probably see them both in a few hours I will mention to get on here and see if they can help.

I line between 11 and 13 Volts. (have pushed it to 14 Volts to use 14rls)
Make sure it is adequetly lubed with super lube or similar quality lube.
In my experience They will get quite hot if you are lining above 13 V for an extended period ...ie an hour or more.

Hand speed has a lot to do with it, I can line just fine with the volts set to 8.5 to 12.0. You really need to let the needle fill the skin up with a good amount of ink. There is a fine line with going to slow or to fast, and using your stretching hand to feel the vibration the needle is making on the skin. This allows you to see what the needle is doing with your mind, I know when a line is going to look good or bad before I even wipe the ink away.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by joelhague

So I recently got a neo vivace from eikon ,3.5 stroke black I have a few questions about the machine hopefully some of the experienced users can answer , so I am going by the voltages g.graves posted using 8-9 volts for color, 10v for shading and 11.5-12 v for lining, on the neotat website they explain the machine can run from 6-16 volts has anyone used it higher then 12? My machine goes from being silent then around 12 volts gets quite loud maybe a bit rattly sounding , is this normal? Also on the neotat site they mention the CPS go hand in hand with voltage , example: 9v = 90 CPS, 12v = 120 CPS
Etc , is this true? Would it not make sense to run the machine 12 volts or over for lining as it would put it in the normal liner range for CPS, I have had great results packing color and shading with this machine but seems a bit tricky for lining where others make it look like it lines like a sharpie *cough* g.graves*end cough* ;) any advice is appreciated

---

I line with mine around 8.5 volts. A good stretch is important for a good line with rotary machines. What do your lines look like when you do them? Are they faint? Is there a split down the middle of the line or does the skin just look chewed up?

To a certain extent, the voltage/cps go hand in hand, but I think it's different for each stroke. 9v on a short stroke seems to be much faster than 9v on an xl stroke. My coil machines usually run around 104 - 110 loaded, and at about the same hand speed, I will use about 8 - 9v on my neotats to line with - so either it's hard to say how cps matches with volts, or I'm used to lining much slower with a rotary.

Unlike coils, with Rotaries you have to press the needle into the skin to line. I use mine around the 10v-11v never took it up to 12v. In my experience the Vivace is the most reliable machine out of the 7 or 8 machines i've tried so far. I will be purchasing more stroke lengths in the new year.

Everyone says this press it into the skin more thing like go deeper? Push harder? Can someone explain this better are u pushing deeper then 1.5-1.75 mm into the skin then ? Why is this? Is it only on rotarys without give ? Or does it apply to both

I do not have the Vicace, just the older med stroke Neo Tat. But I wanted to help and try to clarify the ideas here. Voltage can help you just as much as it can hurt you. Trying to line with a rotary with no give is very different from a coil. For each piece of skin you have to find the sweet spot with voltage. Usually depending on your needle size I find it is between 8-10 volts. I would not recommend higher voltages to start. I would really suggest starting at 8.5-9.5. I use mostly tight 5s and tight 7s, ad have found that most places 9 - 9.5 and not hanging the needle out as far as I like ( stops snags ) and I can move almost as fast as I did with coils. The big difference being that, my lines are 90% more likely to be perfect in one pass. I find that running it too fast gets more snags in the skin and a less solid line. I started at 11 volts and have since slowed it down a lot. Mostly because I am stubborn and had to make this machine work for me. Now I love it. Granted this is not the Vicace but a similar machine by the same maker. I think what Allie and G.graves said is really gOod advice.

Hi guys, ive recently purchased the xl stroke neo vivace with the intention of using it as a colour packer and yet i cant find any reference on the forum to this effect. im finding that the 3.5 stroke is often used to pack, why is this? my understanding is the longer the throw the more consistent the fill.. anybody shed any light on it for me?

with regards to the above posts i agree lining with a rotary is different, i often use a short stroke dragonfly or a long stroke to line with the same results, line about 10.2/ 10.4 and run the first line or two as you want, then you get a feel for the speed the machine wants to line at, strange but true. a minor handspeed adjustment and whamo! pressing on is a must and i also have the machine more inverted to the skin riding the tip , the more needle i show the messier it is snags etc.

I so far like a medium to short stroke for color packing. I have used both the Neo tat and the treasure chest at medium stroke with great results for color packing or blending. I think I may be more confident for solid color with a rotary than a coil now. I found that the long stroke slows the machine down and needs more volts.

As for the question about pushing harder, I thought of a good concept. I like to think if it like using a pencil. It's not so much pushing harder as it is tip pressure. Like when using a pencil, if you want a darker line you apply just a slight amount of pressure to the tip as you write/draw for a darker line. I find that almost the exact concept holds true for lining with a rotary.