i actually got 2 halos and one is still new in the box. no need for it w/ the rpg. i love being able to tattoo w one set up. need a diff grouping in the middle? takes 2 secs to throw something else in. I LOVE CARTS!!!
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i actually got 2 halos and one is still new in the box. no need for it w/ the rpg. i love being able to tattoo w one set up. need a diff grouping in the middle? takes 2 secs to throw something else in. I LOVE CARTS!!!
especially this time of yr. at least out here...this is going into slow season.Quote:
Originally Posted by cagelavey
don't forget to take the stay up spring out of your halo...it just overworks the motor. the band in cart will do the job.Quote:
Originally Posted by cagelavey
Did you guys remove the stay up spring?
thanks bro ill let you know what I think too. im gonna rock otut the 3.6 to line and try the 3.2 for shading and color, and ill leave a few lines to do with the 3.2 before I switch to the shade/color, just so I can get a feel for both. I know gaston says he's stuck on the 3.2mm cam so, who knows I might be a convert, lol. we'll see what happens
yeah, I know to take out the stay up spring, I did a lil research on the issue before I bought the halo on the subject of carts, because that is all I use. so I had to know the ins and outs of all that, thanks for the reminder, though.
Hey guys, quick note.
You will no wear the bushing in just a couple of tattoos. the delrin one has a "delrin) bushing which is a poliacetal with low friction coefficient. The aluminums have a brass bushing, again stainless steel and brass are great together (just like motors have the brass bushing on the stainless steel axel)
We did not cut any corners in the construction of these grips and the best materials we used to provide a great performance.
We did countless of hours of testing and you can rest assure that you got what you paid for.
Should any of the grip should show any manufacture defect,
The way the system works forbibs the bar and bushing from wearing of. There is a small amount of play for the DriveBar to glide without friction. The DriveBar connects concentrically with the end of the cartridge stem (in that concave area) therefore the bar is kept aligned with cartridge at al times.
One thing that we recommend (it's on the instructions that came with your grip) is to dab a bit of synthetic grease on the tip of the bar from time to time. Do not use oil! Synthetic grease is food great approved and non toxic.
You can use a rubber band losely. The color ones great good as they are softer. In the event of machines with tensioner, apply just the smallest tension possible, the reason being is that you don't want to purposely push the bar down so much and make it grind against the bushing.
I say if your machine does not make any noise without rubber band tension don't use at all. A bit of tension wont hurt neither, some times quiets the cartridge if it gets noisy.
If you are going to use a direct drive, do not exceed 3.5mm stroke.
Any further questions please ask.
Yes remove your stay up spring (And read the instructions that came with your grip :) )Quote:
Originally Posted by crabink
good to know, I read every bit of literature though, lol. im going to have to end up getting the aluminum rpg, though. I just like as little vibration as possible and heavier grips tend to help a lot with that. is all good though, a good excuse to make another purchase. :)
Used the 3.6 for 5 hrs. Had to bump up the volts to 8.5 for lining and 7.5 for shading. Didn't notice too much of a diff than the 3.2. Really easy machine to use. I like how it bogs at low volts for shading. Black and grey is a breeze w standard #12 carts. I'll try the 4.0 out next just to see how it performs.