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thanx for the video, but i mean post a video of one of your COILS MACHINES push a TTECH or CHEYENNE original cart and show how many ampere absorb
all the coils machines u can try pushing cart they gonna absorb and get hot, thats no secret, specially for done outline, so the CART cant work fine with coils, NO WAY
I know what you mean No Iron, as I said, you need to wait until next time I use carts, and have a suitable power supply, not all power supplies show Amps....I disagree that Coil Machines get hot running carts, if the Machine is tuned and set up correctly, it doesn't overheat....All depends on the Machine, Coils and Tuning......
In addition, I personally, wouldn't run 18's as they could run too slow...Depending on the Machine, I find a 20 rear, and 20 cutback upfront to be the best combo...
the 20s are whats breaking though, right? unless I miss understood
I think he is using og Spring stock, so Starett or BSI gauge is better quality...An 18 front could offer too much flex, and not enough tension, the down side of that, is it would need more volts to compensate for the spring within the cart, this would only increase force of hit, not speed...An 18 cutback offers more tension than a conventional length 18 front spring,but, I found it still ran pretty slow when running carts...
GET HOT, NO WAY MAN, look how many resistance have the ORIGINAL CHEYENNE CART, need lot of power to push this shit with a COILS, maybe u can shading soft, but for push a thick line, example for old school tattoos, maybe a 9-14 loose, u gonna go very high on volts, and machines easy gonna absorb more than 0.5 ampere, and get hot easy, try all u want, thats no secret man, is the OHM LAW,
machine that absorb more than half ampere get hot fast, NO WAY, good luck
I second that what skin mech says a 20 backspring and 20 cutback work great. But you must use very good spring stock that is flexible. Good spring stock should snap back and not be brittle. Also putting a nice smooth lightly rounded fulcrum points on the frame and abar helps with a cart setup to not get snapped springs. Also how much pressure you are pushing your needles out makes a big difference in how it runs. They needles need a bit of forward tension but to much will cause a lot of back pressure against the abar that will make it harder to push them out. This will cause more back pressure on the rear spring and make the machine use more volts to pull the bar down. This will cause a shorter stroke. Personally i would not use hawk carts as they require to much pressure to run easy on a coil machine.
thanks for your help guys, I'm not totally sure on gauges of the springs I've been using. however they are the stock tattoome springs that came with the machines, and i replaced them with the same stock springs which came as spares.
i spoke to a machine builder yesterday and we spoke about the problem, he mentioned he'd heard numerous times that the coils i use are too powerful and have a lot of tension, the back springs snap easily.
so given the fact I'm using carts gives good reason to why the springs are breaking so often.
i emailed the coil builder and they said they have heard a few people have had the same problem and that the machines need adjustments , some fine tuning, and (in my case id imagine i need to try 20 and 20 springs to compensate for the carts.)
the builder said he could take a look for me in sept when he's in the uk and sort them for me, and they will send me new springs once in stock. although these will snap again I'm sure if I'm using carts.
if someone could recommend some good springs that would be great and ill try fix it myself for the time being.
Skinmech thanks for your offer i may take you up on that as the back spring is far shorter than any of my spares and i don't have the tools or manliness to cut metal myself.ha
the positive side to this is that whilst my coils are out of action, i have no choice but to learn to line with my rotary. i had the bearing repaired by iain at rotary works on a springer mk2 and have not been able to use it until now.so I'm looking forward to giving that a go.
so ill put the time in to learn to line with that.
thanks
I push 14 liner ttech just fine with my fk coil at around 4.7-5 volts. I have my machines on constant too and it NEVER gets hot. Runs like a dream. Set it up right and you won't have any problems using cartridges.Quote:
Originally Posted by No Iron Machines
No probs, I have plenty of stock, so keep in touch... Attachment 25810
hey JASON, can u have chance to post a video of the FK pushing cart ? very interested, becouse i try with many many different coil machines to push cart, all need go very high with volts and run weird, even with SUNSKIN machines that are strong like hell, same shit
u have a POWER SUPPLY that read also ampere ??? to understand how absorb the machine
COOL....