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You could use the gripcovers over them that unimax sells but the t-tech do not back seal like the hawks. So I would soak the grips in madacide over night at least.The health dept. in my area accepted that(Althoe I do have an autoclave I want to find a quicker way,if they become soiled then they must be autoclave etc.).So first a wipe down then a min. of a 8hour soak. in a clean container marked just for that(which also must be wiped down and kept clean at all times).Then then they have to be stored in a marked "madacide soaked" pouch & dated then stored in a clean container much like you would do with a autoclave setup.Also you must keep on file when/were the madacide was bought and also keep it clean(lid area etc.)and stored properly.
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I'm sure before we know it the Chinese will be knocking off ttechs grips and making them disposable for $.20 each haha
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uggg yeah Im just gonna not be able to use them, I dont feel like explaining to the health department why i have a metal grip and no autoclave, sucks
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im sure someone will have disposable grips for these needle cartridges before you know it
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Mate we have a handful of Super hard clips with no give just come off the production line ... we realize some folk just simply like a harder hit ... send me an e-mail and I will get you squared away with one to try ... [email protected] ... we will have them up to purchase soon .. but just road testing them with folks at the moment .... Let me know if you want to try it.
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Just sent an email to Samyo to get the super hard clip, and he sent an email back with in the hour:) he informed me that he would be happy to help. Could not be more stoked, can't wait to get the new clip:)
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since using my neo tats for almost evrything for a while. but recentlystarted using my coils again and loving it, and im 100% better with them now. i guess cause i had to learn new techniques to use my neotats. probally the techniques i should of beeen using all along
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Never used a whip, but I have found a happy medium on my armature rotaries with the whole dampening thing. I had gone real drastic on it at first, and have got it to a pretty stiff setup now. The way mine are dampened makes them able to push lines of any size with ease, (where is I could barely push anything with a stealth) I like them for whip shading as well, but the portrait guy in my shop is loving his for the soft blending stuff.. set at a 3mm stroke.
as far as solid packing, I tend to go for my direct drives.
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I got to run a piece with a pair of Swashdrive Whips...they're quiet as can be and they look all cool and science fiction-y , but I wanted to really see what they might be able to do for me.
holding the machine it felt solid, although i'm not a fan of polymer machine bods...some of the little bits up near the adjustment apparatus seemed a little flimsy ( I'm sure time will tell on that )
Lining: I had to turn up the machine to about 12v ( Monster point EMS 200 clone ). Kingpin tight 5 liner. it settles into the skin nice, and I can run lines much faster than my Neo Tat. I like the give for lining, even though even at the stiffest setting it was still a little too soft. Not really able to play with line weight on a first pass. In my opinion it still doesn't hold a candle to a good colied machine for lining though.
Coloring: After having a pretty positive experience with the whip as a liner I was pretty stoked to see what it could do as a color packer. Ran the machine at between 8-9v ( I'm constantly adjusting my voltage )
Used Mithra 13 Mag Bugpin needle. Ran a small spot nice a deliberate trying to let the machine do the work. Didn't like the saturation...Too much give once again..this time though it really interrupted my work flow...
I love blending color, I don't like to layer it so much as just mix color in the tube and pack color in a solid single pass...After much adjustment I just couldn't find a sweet spot. I was so disappointed in the way it puts the color in the skin, that I threw together my Neo Tat during a smoke break to finish the piece.
I bet it would have been the jam for some black and gray.
Now I've heard many glowing reviews of this machine, but I think if you like solid first pass saturation you may want to look elsewhere. I believe too much was put into the adjustable give slider bar mechanism, and it actually undermines the elegant simplicity of the rotary concept. Kinda turns me off to this whole generation of adjustable rotary machines...I'll stick with no-give systems
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I used the whip a few time now, and can tell that the machine likes to be set to 0 with the soft bar and med weight for packing in ink quick and easy!!!! When I slide the adjust bar forward it does not pack it in nearly as fast or as saturated. Same thing with the next stiffer spring, when set to 0 it hits pretty hard and gets it in good, then when I slide it up all the way (the stiffer setting) it hits softer. Very curious to see how the no give at all bar works, might need to see about getting a crank with a 4.0mm or something.
