For those of you who purchased a Centri Evader, this is thread where i would love to hear your thoughts. Thanks again for the support!
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For those of you who purchased a Centri Evader, this is thread where i would love to hear your thoughts. Thanks again for the support!
Attachment 29174
i have mine, and have used it for the past couple of days. runs like a champ.both lining and color work were wonderful. but two things... rubber bands are a bit of a pain to get on, and 1mm higher on the needle bar post so the needle rests a bit higher.
So far I have enjoyed mine. Lining felt very coil like for me. It does the work for you. Coloring went well. But solid black tribal fill was just a bit slow for my taste. Black&grey went smooth with the shortained stroke. If I could have one dream it would be to possibly be able to move the rotating magnet closer and further away from the armature magnet. I don't know if this would even be feasible. But in theory it allow for a soft hit even at high speeds. This by no means a diss at this machine. The evader is well built, runs smooth and consistent. A quality tool indeed if you like give in tattoo your machine.
Thanks guys, i will make the needle pin base alittle higher next round. The cam can be adjustable to some degree on this version but it can cause undesirable results if your to far away as the needle will be more comfortable not moving at all. But there is a tiny window that can be played with that show large changes in the stroke. When working with these magnets it doesnt take much to change alot. I have it tuned right now to be a all around machine. shortening the stroke and raising the voltage will make a soft hit. The default stroke at around 11.5 is a beast. You can take this machine up 12.5, between 10.5 and 12.5 you should be able to find the tuning you desire for the task at hand along side the stroke adjustment.
thanks again for the info guys, looking forward to more.
well when you make the new batch let me know so that i can get a new pin base in green.
This may very well be my next buy. How does it handle thick powder based pigment? What is the minimum and maximum stroke? Does the hit remain the same as the stroke is changed? Can the give be changed? Does the hit increase/ decrease with voltage?
Jesse have you seen our videos?
Yeah man. The Evader looks so nice. I suppose it answers the question about the adjustable give but I like to be really clear about what to expect out of a machine before I buy. Would it be better if I emailed or facebooked you?Quote:
Originally Posted by Cyberitual
I have been using the machine with a variety of different inks, and it has performed really well. as far as "hit" the machine can hit quite soft with a lot of "give" but the give is very positive if that makes any sense, or hard and in between as well. the stroke of the machine is any where you would like it to be as that is adjustable with the stroke adjuster wheel on the back of the machine. the pin base and the motor are not linked together, but are repulsed by a spinning magnet.Quote:
Originally Posted by Jesse Phillips
Which is the correct rotation direction of the motor - clockwise or cunter clockwise ?
Well that would depend which way your looking at the machine. If you were looking at the RCA side it would be spinning clockwise with a normal RCA, Looking at the cam side it would spin counter clockwise with a normal RCA.
Now when i mean a normal RCA i mean that the positive on one side of the cable is positive on the other side, and not crossed. Rca cords that people buy for tattooing, 90% of the time are crossed because they just dont give a fuck when they solder the plugs onto the cable... The Cobra's light has a resister in it that will not work with a crossed RCA, Which i love taking to conventions and showing the vendors of tattoo supplies the shit they really sell. Best RCA you can buy and that you can trust 100% to be wired correctly is a AUDIO or VIDEO RCA cable. They come in pairs for Audio and will have 3 for Video.
Why do you want a cable with 2 or 3 plugs on both ends you may wonder? Well you pull them apart as they are usually 2 or 3 single cables melted into one. Simply strip them apart from each other like string cheese and now you have 2 or 3 cables for the price of one!
Thank you very much for your answer :)
Could you take video with proper needle settings. I mean normal needle :) also some other tips that we should to know. I ask for it ,because the needle pin has two position up &down . Thanks in advance :)
there are videos on my site, and on youtube. centritattoo.com and centritattoo on youtube. How long have you been tattooing for WonderTeddy?
10X :)
You rebuilding knockoffs? Do have a genuine evader or are you trying to get info on how to set up a knock off version better or trying to make a knock off of this. I'm asking because saying you have a knock off and you know what your doing and know how to "tune" a Chinese halo is sad. Honestly seems to me wonder teddy, your trying to get info for a Chinese version/ making a Chinese evader and that's not cool.
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Either im not getting your english to well or you dont know what your doing, and you need alot of info that any one who tattoos would already know and understand. All machines go up and down lol, well maybe the chinese halo goes round and round... not to sure about this one. If you buy a machine from me i send it out with its default largest stroke. Everyone who gets a machine immediately will plug it in and tune it to there personal preference. Which the Evader can be tuned to any and all strokes you could want.
Is the evader good with t-tech carts?
The "Audio" "Video" RCA cable is good idea as long as you get a quality one. I had one bad experience with one... One day, I was testing the voltaje displayed and measured on mi regular power supply vs my old eikon ems200 to see differences... I had one of those audio/video rca striped on my regular Power unit cause they are thin and confortable and one thicker self made cable on the eikon and start the measurements... Then I got shock, I see at same voltage displayed on the units the machine connected to eikon sounded with more power, I had to raise like two volts on the other power supply to get the same sound and output voltage. After a few testing, I decided to change the cables and to my surprise it was the cable that had "too much resistance in just one and a half meter". I throw to garbage all my cheap "chinesse store" cables and from there, have that into account when using a cable. Hope this help when choosing a cable.Quote:
Originally Posted by Cyberitual
There any videos of the evader set up and running, I'd like to see final size and how quiet or loud it is!