*Tutorial* Changing the Motor on a Rotaryworks..Part 1.

I love RW Machines, and have used most models, and I rate them alongside the best Machines on the Planet, Coils included..I run a 6v Triple Conrod, which I referred to it as a "twin cam" in my Review. I ran a 12v Slim-Line the other day and was surprised to see the different adjustments within the 12v "voltage range", simply put, the 12v offered a larger powerband, so in turn you could adjust your Machine more..

So, I got a 12v motor from Dale, and as I was going to fit it, I thought I would take some pics, so you guys can see how easy it is...

So, I am changing over from a 6v, to a 12v to see if the 12v offers more adjustment thro the volts and is not as "restricted" as a 6v motor..

Pic 1..Loosen off the Shoulder screws,but don't remove.
Pic 2..Loosen off the Cam Grub Screw, not fully, as it will fall out and you will lose it,LOL..Now loosen off the shoulder screws fully, and remove "the drive system"
Pic 3..Now you have access to the front securing screws for the motor, undo fully, and remove the motor.

*Tutorial* Changing the Motor on a Rotaryworks..Part 2.

With all the parts dis-assembled, I decided to polish all the Brass..Refitting the new Motor takes seconds, (I prefer to run my motor in the one direction all the time, so I always make sure the Red clip on my Cord goes to the bottom, this is just a preference of mine)..

Pic 1.. Dis assembled Machine
Pic 2.. Polished up
Pic 3.. New Motor re-aligned, and screws tightened.
Pic 4.. Refit "drive system", gently tighten the Cam Grub Screw first, once in place, re-line Shoulder screws and 95% tighten..

*Tutorial* Changing the Motor on a Rotaryworks..Part 3.

Okay so all the parts are back on the Machine, now is the important part....Fully tighten the Shoulder Screws,(Pic 1,part 1)...Now Look at the Drive System,the main Drive Arm, which has the Red Pen pointing towards it, must run Linear or straight up and down, if it is too far forward, or leans to the back, adjust by simply loosing off the Cam Grub Screw, re-align and then re-tighten. Once you are happy, have a quick check that all screws are tightened, and you are good to go....Total time 15 mins....

Any questions Please feel free to ask...

PS...I will let you know on Thursday what the results are..I am looking forward to see if the 12v does offer more scope for adjustment within the "voltage range", but, tbh, I enjoy the "plug and play" no fukn about, "just do it" ability of the 6v motor....Could be interesting..P.

Thanks for that mate :) I did wonder how you got to the front two screws. I have 'two' RW now :) , a six volt with 4mm throw for lining (Love it) and a 12v slimline for ????? aint used it yet. What volts do you find the 12v runs on for what things ? just as a starting point. I run the 6v on about 4.2v for lining with 5 liners. How about you ?

Well, I ran the Slim-Line for colour work, so I don't know what V's yet for the Triple, it is a totally different machine...

Really useful info there skinmech, you changed the 6v for a 12vto try the power band, how did that work out? Was the 12v better overall?.. Do you use the rw to line with? Cheers

The 12v motor is more forgiving, and has a slightly larger range of volts.....I prefer the 6v tbh....The Triple is easily one of the best Rotary Liners I have ever used...and is in my top 3 Machines of all time..

Wow top 3!! What is so different with the triple conrod?... I ordered a red alu 12v before xmas, and now got a black alu 12v really really like dales machines worth double even triple what they cost!!

I agree....Simply put, as I said I prefer the 6v motor, it is very " zappy" and with small light zappy motored Rotaries, there can be a tendency for increased vibrations and "unsteadiness" at the needle point, especially at the top of the voltage range..The triple, due to the "twin-cams" helps eliminate this....So it can be easily ran at higher volts (if needed) and the linear motion remains constant and precise......

I am just in the process of purchasing one of these models of dale want it with RCA

Skin mech wot do you use this machine mainly for mate

i had a question for you skinmech .. i was thinking of gettin a standard RW but having dale make it a 4.5mm stroke do u think this wood make it an even better liner

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Originally Posted by Dardy2

Skin mech wot do you use this machine mainly for mate

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PM ...Would have been easier,LOL...Lining, and drop some volts if I want to pack with the same Needle...Best Rotary Liner I have came across for less than 350 bucks..

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Originally Posted by tattood

i had a question for you skinmech .. i was thinking of gettin a standard RW but having dale make it a 4.5mm stroke do u think this wood make it an even better liner

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PM Would have been easier,LOL...No, the standard stroke is long and powerful enough, no matter how much you hang your needle...Trust me, go with the standard 3.5mm stroke.

kool. i have one and love it for lining.. thought maybe a longer stroke wood make it even better. im thinkin ill just get the triple instead :)

Quote:

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Originally Posted by skinmech

PM ...Would have been easier,LOL...Lining, and drop some volts if I want to pack with the same Needle...Best Rotary Liner I have came across for less than 350 bucks..

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I actually did just that. i lined with a 9rl and packed in the black after dropping the volts. pretty much 1 pass solid black fill.. it was on some script