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  1. #11
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    Updates!

    I´ve got some updates for you!
    Last week I designed a frame that is a bit more friendly to finish after printing. The one you have seen has a lot og edges in the motor-frame-part, and gives me a hard time to file and sand down properly. So I reworked a round motorframe, and this is al lot easier to give a nice polished surface with no layers visible.

    Here is the difference between raw printed and processed, not polished, only filed and sanded.
    IMG_3692.jpg

    I´ve also made a couple of machines for my brothers at Sail Away to play with:
    IMG_3677.jpgIMG_3682.jpgIMG_3683.jpg

    The next step now is to finish up a couple of prototypes to sell to a couple of my fellow tattooers here in Norway.
    If the feedback is to my expectations, I´ll start a small production of this design, all numbered and signed.
    And all of the bolts, nuts and screws will be brass and metric.

    I´m not shure what price I´m landing on yet, but my guess is around 320USD or 2000NOK plus shipping for this version. There will be a limited range of colours and the will also be a custom one off line.

    And finally i came up with a name for this: PLA-STIK. (Printed in PLA and its plastic, awesome!)

    I hope you laaik!

  2. #12
    Machine Builder I build Tattoo Machines No Iron Machines's Avatar
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    is very good the quality man, cool, form the pics the BLACK part look better done respect the RED, is a different kind of plastic ?

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  4. #13
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    Yeah, it´s the same plastic, but more straighter surface etc. easier to work with. But i bought myself some brand new files yesterday, that might do the trick for getting smooth surfaces, looks like it.

  5. #14
    Machine Builder I build Tattoo Machines No Iron Machines's Avatar
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    how long took the printer to print the BLACK piece ???

  6. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by No Iron Machines View Post
    how long took the printer to print the BLACK piece ???
    It takes my printer to do it in about 40-45mins, and it takes about an hour to sand down by hand, without working too fast as the plastic naturally melts with too much friction.
    The PLA takes around 60-70C before it becomes "unstable" and melts around 190C.

  7. #16
    Machine Builder I build Tattoo Machines No Iron Machines's Avatar
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    oh ok cool, compliments again, very inetersted the 3D PRINTER, i think for done prototype and some parts are amazing, i design all my machine with CAD but in 2D, i learn little bit myself, not so difficult, i try 3D i don understand nothing....ha ha ha
    i would like to use some of this printer but sound impossible for myself draw in 3D, fuck....h aha h

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  9. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by No Iron Machines View Post
    oh ok cool, compliments again, very inetersted the 3D PRINTER, i think for done prototype and some parts are amazing, i design all my machine with CAD but in 2D, i learn little bit myself, not so difficult, i try 3D i don understand nothing....ha ha ha
    i would like to use some of this printer but sound impossible for myself draw in 3D, fuck....h aha h
    I actually design mine in Sketchup, of course it is a bit more trial and error before you get the final satisfying print. But it is very easy to use, free and fast
    3D printing is a nice way to do prototyping, but you have to get a pretty expensive printer if you want prints with no finishing touches to the print itself. Thats why im sanding and polishing my machines, it also gives a handmade feel to it..

  10. #18
    Knows Whats Up! OwlsDen's Avatar
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    I would really suggest that once you have the pieces in the form that you want to make molds for casting. Then you can do resin casts or wax casts for lost wax metal casting. It could safe you a lot of extra labor in the long run.

  11. #19
    Machine Builder I build Tattoo Machines No Iron Machines's Avatar
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    i have to try this program u say SKETCHUP, need to give a second chance to 3D DESIGN, cool....

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  13. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by OwlsDen View Post
    I would really suggest that once you have the pieces in the form that you want to make molds for casting. Then you can do resin casts or wax casts for lost wax metal casting. It could safe you a lot of extra labor in the long run.
    Well, It has been in the back of my head, but right now I don´t have any place to make castings, and the design would not work pretty well in metal. It would be too heavy and chunky.
    If i can get this thing rolling, I´ll invest in some proper machining tools, like a small mill and a lathe, and then I can mill my own machines etc in aluminium.
    Anyway, the machines work perfectly imo. now its just finding the right way to finish the frames effectively and with the best looking finish.

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