Page 3 of 3 FirstFirst 123
Results 21 to 27 of 27
  1. #21
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Aug 2014
    Location
    Amsterdam
    Posts
    188
    Post Thanks / Like
    Hi,


    Cool machine!


    This is my first post on this forum...i thought this might be usefull in your process.
    i think the sanding part is a waiste of your time, not good for your hands and everybody hates sanding i think..


    Iff a polis or sand machine will melt it you could try this:

    i know allot of hardware stuff and toys and car parts are polished by simply throw it in a bucket with the right material and it get polished by movement, you just need to find out what polish your printed material the best...


    Also works on aluminium
    it will never melt your product as it never heats up
    And you can polish a few machines at a time

    one material at a time


    You could try:
    #Glas marbles
    #Hardend bearings
    #nuts
    #your toe nails
    #whatever


    A small cement/concreed mixer you see used by construction workers will do the trick for sure you can find these cheap.
    they are pretty quiet acctually iff kept clean and lubed.


    You can make a cover on top of the bucket and the noise should be minimal.


    or you could just expiriment with a plastic bucket with a cover with a material and shake it
    I hope i picked the right words as my english is not that good

  2. Thanks iden thanked for this post.
  3. #22
    Junior Member
    Join Date
    Jan 2014
    Location
    Drammen, Norway
    Posts
    13
    Post Thanks / Like
    Funny you should mention that!
    Because I experimented with tumbling just a couple a weeks ago!

    But the thing is, when a print is finished, you´ll have a pretty rough surface, way more that say e.g molds. I could print in a higher resolution, almost 3times better than what I print now, but that would take ages.
    It´s faster to file, sand and polish, and now I finally got the hang of it!
    Polishing works fine if I move the part around a bit more than metals, it just takes a bit longer to get the "glassy" feel to it.

    In the future I´ll invest/or make a tumbler for polishing small parts, but first an upgraded 3Dprinter is on the top of the list!

    I also experimented with some carvings, looks like I can do something custom with that.

    pla-stik.jpgpla-stik-blueprint.jpg

  4. #23
    Machine Builder I build Tattoo Machines fkirons's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2010
    Location
    Miami Beach, Florida
    Posts
    2,143
    Post Thanks / Like
    Printing at higher resolution makes the whole print stronger and easier to work with. The lower the resolution the more chances you have to get split layers especially when applying force to the part. Looking good man.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    For Customer service please contact Kayleigh
    Email under "Contact Us" at fkirons.com


  5. #24
    Junior Member
    Join Date
    Jan 2014
    Location
    Drammen, Norway
    Posts
    13
    Post Thanks / Like
    Quote Originally Posted by fkirons View Post
    Printing at higher resolution makes the whole print stronger and easier to work with. The lower the resolution the more chances you have to get split layers especially when applying force to the part. Looking good man.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    Thanks!

    Yep, I know, right now I´m printing with 0.25mm layer and have a 0.45mm nozzle, and with a bit higher flow, lower speed and right amount of cooling it works good, no splitting vice etc.
    PLA is easier to work with that way, you can see a bad print right away, that will split.
    I´ve done some stresstesting on some of my prototypes, with force, and 6months with tattooing, and that was before I got my printer running optimal. The frames are printed with solid overlapping infill and 1.35mm wall.

  6. #25
    Machine Builder I build Tattoo Machines fkirons's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2010
    Location
    Miami Beach, Florida
    Posts
    2,143
    Post Thanks / Like
    Quote Originally Posted by iden View Post
    Thanks!

    Yep, I know, right now I´m printing with 0.25mm layer and have a 0.45mm nozzle, and with a bit higher flow, lower speed and right amount of cooling it works good, no splitting vice etc.
    PLA is easier to work with that way, you can see a bad print right away, that will split.
    I´ve done some stresstesting on some of my prototypes, with force, and 6months with tattooing, and that was before I got my printer running optimal. The frames are printed with solid overlapping infill and 1.35mm wall.
    Solid Infills is the way to go. these guys may take a long time to print but they'll be worth it.
    Have you tried acetone to give the printing a smooth finish. If you do it right it may look like you tumbled the part and polished it.

    I've noticed that the different colors have different strength and finish.
    For Customer service please contact Kayleigh
    Email under "Contact Us" at fkirons.com


  7. #26
    Junior Member
    Join Date
    Jan 2014
    Location
    Drammen, Norway
    Posts
    13
    Post Thanks / Like
    Quote Originally Posted by fkirons View Post
    Solid Infills is the way to go. these guys may take a long time to print but they'll be worth it.
    Have you tried acetone to give the printing a smooth finish. If you do it right it may look like you tumbled the part and polished it.

    I've noticed that the different colors have different strength and finish.
    Actually I´m printing in PLA, as in the name of the machine "PLA-stik"
    And acetone doesn´t bite on PLA as it does on ABS, there is something else that is used, but I can´t remember the name and have no idea where to get it.
    ABS react to several chemicals, but PLA seems to take almost anything, except too much head i.e boiling hot water.
    IMO the PLA is better as material for this kind of construction, its harder and its easier to post-process, ABS tend to softly bend and finally break. And of course, there is the handmade-feel to it that matters to me, 3D printing is kinda like molding brass/steel frames for coil-machines, you have to do something to it afterwards..

    Yes, different colours have different strength, I find the solid ones the best and easiest to print/process.. The transparent ones can be a pain in the ass sometimes.

  8. #27
    Machine Builder I build Tattoo Machines fkirons's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2010
    Location
    Miami Beach, Florida
    Posts
    2,143
    Post Thanks / Like
    Quote Originally Posted by iden View Post
    Actually I´m printing in PLA, as in the name of the machine "PLA-stik"
    And acetone doesn´t bite on PLA as it does on ABS, there is something else that is used, but I can´t remember the name and have no idea where to get it.
    ABS react to several chemicals, but PLA seems to take almost anything, except too much head i.e boiling hot water.
    IMO the PLA is better as material for this kind of construction, its harder and its easier to post-process, ABS tend to softly bend and finally break. And of course, there is the handmade-feel to it that matters to me, 3D printing is kinda like molding brass/steel frames for coil-machines, you have to do something to it afterwards..

    Yes, different colours have different strength, I find the solid ones the best and easiest to print/process.. The transparent ones can be a pain in the ass sometimes.
    Yeah. PLA is more stable and easy to work than ABS and it doesn't require having a heated build plate.
    I never tried the acetone process but I saw a video on YouTube.
    Tip I discover the other say after several failed rafts: cover your build plate with capton tape and heat it up with a blow dryer until is about to print. Be careful not to melt anything in the printer especially if your build plate is not glass or metal. Prints stick so good!



    Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD
    For Customer service please contact Kayleigh
    Email under "Contact Us" at fkirons.com


Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •