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  1. #1
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    Best rotary for black and grey

    Just as the title says I'm looking for opinions on what is the best black and grey clip cord rotary machine? I have tried a couple and am looking at HM La Pinta. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
    Frank

  2. #2
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    Whats up Frank!
    I keep coming back to my direct drive Metaxa Classic. A tube set with a shallow ammount of needle and the zero give seems to do something special for me. I think its more in how much needle hang and how you move your hand though. If you want I can text you a video of my setup.

  3. #3
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    HM Santa Maria is probably suited better than the la pinta for smooth b&g. I think the stroke is longer on pinta.

  4. #4
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    Does stroke even matter with no give machines? I mean, you can have 4mm of stroke and just hang out about 2.7 mm of needle and it seems to act the same as if all you had was 2.7 mm to begin with.

  5. #5
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    I own 3 HM machines. La pinta, Santa Maria and the adjustable DD. The La Pinta and the DD are capable of achieving great soft shading, depending on how you use them. They can also be used for some really good colour packing. The Santa Maria is a dedicated short stroke (2.5 i think) with a touch of added dampening, and therefore in my opinion is faultless for black and grey. I use mine every day.
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  6. #6
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    I agree with you Jesse phillips regarding stroke as i pretty much only use either a thunder or spirit or HM adjustable DD & carts for everything. All in the hand.. But the santa maria with trad setup is effortless & is a bit special for b&g. Romans machines are sweet.

  7. #7
    Knows Whats Up! hellraiser6662's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jesse Phillips View Post
    Does stroke even matter with no give machines? I mean, you can have 4mm of stroke and just hang out about 2.7 mm of needle and it seems to act the same as if all you had was 2.7 mm to begin with.
    I think you got the idea wrong. Even if its 4 mm stroke it doesnt act like a 2.7 mm stroke even if you only use that much of the needle. The stroke goes like this 4mm is for colour packing. 3.5mm is for colour shading and bng. 2.5mm is for lining and bng. The stroke is how far the needle travels on the cam , bigger the travel more punch the needle will have thats why some people have give which takes a little off the punch its no different to coils bigger the throw more punch. Also a heavy cam will do the same as adding more to the punch or wieghts to a bar like the whip.
    Quote Originally Posted by Jesse Phillips View Post
    Does stroke even matter with no give machines? I mean, you can have 4mm of stroke and just hang out about 2.7 mm of needle and it seems to act the same as if all you had was 2.7 mm to begin with.

    Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by hellraiser6662 View Post
    I think you got the idea wrong. Even if its 4 mm stroke it doesnt act like a 2.7 mm stroke even if you only use that much of the needle. The stroke goes like this 4mm is for colour packing. 3.5mm is for colour shading and bng. 2.5mm is for lining and bng. The stroke is how far the needle travels on the cam , bigger the travel more punch the needle will have thats why some people have give which takes a little off the punch its no different to coils bigger the throw more punch. Also a heavy cam will do the same as adding more to the punch or wieghts to a bar like the whip.



    Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk
    No offense but just about the only thing there I agree with is that a longer stroke and a heavier cam is going to create more velocity. The rest sounds like the old dime liner nickle shader mentality, which I have never agreed with.

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jesse Phillips View Post
    Whats up Frank!
    I keep coming back to my direct drive Metaxa Classic. A tube set with a shallow ammount of needle and the zero give seems to do something special for me. I think its more in how much needle hang and how you move your hand though. If you want I can text you a video of my setup.
    yea please do bro
    Frank

  10. #10
    Knows Whats Up! hellraiser6662's Avatar
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    Well im am old school and got into a apprentship making needles, which most dont know how to do.. but every rotary machine built is on that 4,3.5,2.5 throw theory. If you dont belive it then thats why you stuggling in finding a bng machine. But hay what would i know im old skool working with flitev2 at 15v 2.5 cam soft bar. If its choppy look at you hand speed and machine throw. Thats why bng machines are 2.5 not 4 ask any builder they will confirm that. To get smooth bng its matching your hand speed to the machine, using the right bng mix, the right machine speed, the right needles or carts, most importantly how you move your hand. Go on periscope add carl grace as a friend when he goes live doing a tattoo he will answer any questions about his tattooing.

    Quote Originally Posted by Jesse Phillips View Post
    No offense but just about the only thing there I agree with is that a longer stroke and a heavier cam is going to create more velocity. The rest sounds like the old dime liner nickle shader mentality, which I have never agreed with.

    Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk

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