swiss made

[Tattoo-Rat13]

does anybody knows this machine??? and do you recommand it or not..... http://www.levgroothandel.nl/index.p...productId=3047 ps: i'm looking for my first rotary machine, which one do you guys or girls recommand? thnx!

[wildboy]

excellent machine... if youre able to spend the money get one you wont regret it... its a very silent and powerful tool great for smooth shading and colour blending

[Amoebadesigns]

It is a very nice machine...Lays down color quickly and shades with no problem for me. Runs a little too slow for outline though.

[slicksteel]

tatrat alot of rotary fans still use coil based machines to zap that line in fast-I see a rotary as just another tool to add to the toolbox.

[Tattoo-Rat13]

okay, im searching for a machine to do lining with. today almost throw away my coil machines. they always broke when i'm in the middle of a tat. every time when i addjust them they work fine for a while en then the get fucked or something. My teacher is pretty oldskool and he thinks rotarty is shit. he's got 3 old machines(rotary) and said he didn't liked it. so today i took one for lining as well as shading and i f****ng loved it. i could not finish the piece today so i try to put an photo online soon. i really love finelines......so if one of u has an machine (rotary) for lining i would love to know about it..........because now when i use an coil machine the needle often do not give enough ink........do i need to addjust them better, draw lines more slow. i would love some advise. because my teacher only uses thicker lines and hates thin ones.......help me out please

[peter clements]

Rotaryworks machine will give you thick or thin lines, I have one in alluminium and love it.

[wildboy]

I used the Swiss for outlining and the lines turned out thinner with the same needle grouping... Had the same results with the Bishop. Slicksteel explained why in another thread:

As you are useing a clip linear machine you are actually get a true needle stroke. On coils,direct drive rotarys,swash drives you will get a bigger line as there is more wobble.
look at the needle grouping and then the line, standard groupings needle tips are actully very thin if you loop it, we are just used to a coil machine making a bigger line as the needle tends to jig about in the skin causing a fatter line.

[gangstajay]

yes go with a rotary works for a good machine and a great price.!

[slicksteel]

okay, im searching for a machine to do lining with. today almost throw away my coil machines. they always broke when i'm in the middle of a tat. every time when i addjust them they work fine for a while en then the get fucked or something. My teacher is pretty oldskool and he thinks rotarty is shit. he's got 3 old machines(rotary) and said he didn't liked it. so today i took one for lining as well as shading and i f****ng loved it. i could not finish the piece today so i try to put an photo online soon. i really love finelines......so if one of u has an machine (rotary) for lining i would love to know about it..........because now when i use an coil machine the needle often do not give enough ink........do i need to addjust them better, draw lines more slow. i would love some advise. because my teacher only uses thicker lines and hates thin ones.......help me out please

It sounds like your coil machines are not set up right for what your doing ,if they are they will stay in tune for a long time with basic maintenance.Each coils should be setup to a certain task. If you like fineline for your coils set a superfast machine use a size 10 bugpin tight 5 grouping or a size 12 super tight extra long taper 5 grouping.the trick is to use a high quality small diamond #3 tip such these if your have problems with ink flow use well made small round tips.
I had a partner that was snaping springs all the time as he was push to hard n fast against the skin and craking to many volts as he had not readout. Also use high quailty springs that actually flex when they become to thick they are no longer a spring and will snap as you have to use more volts to push them.also stay away from pre-bent creased springs they to have less flex and are a one size fits all method. The spring should be bent /rounded to each frame etc.use springs sizes 16to20 for best results,
You can use for instance a 20front and 18 back and a 18 front and a 16 back or reverse them:stiffer front spring is faster for lineing & bng shading ,light front for color/color blending. you can also use the same size on both front and back but they tend to run kind of middle ground aka a all rounder
Color machines should run slow and hard but with meduim hard give and long stroke,
#1shader run two different ways -#1 portrait & relistic: medium long storke with soft give and medium slow speed for washes
#2shader for color blending and standard 3 black shading and whip shading- short stroke medium give and meduim speed.
and two liners one set up with cut back front spring and very litttle flex in it. this one should be set to run super fast with a long stroke and a floating type meduim soft give to be use with small liners so you dont get blow outs
second liner should have standard lenth springs and have med. length stroke ,fast speed and medium hard give.
buy a eikon style powersupply for you coils and it will help you tune them.

Hope this helps if you dont know this already.

[Tattoo-Rat13]

@slicksteel:

thnx for the info, i'm going to try al the stuff u told. Now everytime my teacher made my machine and there is the problem. because he only uses a certain needle type and stays with it. and i want to learn more and use more kinds of needles. But here in Amsterdam(holland) it's difficult to go to other shops and learn more there is a lot of hate between artist. So i can't just go to someone else. So i want to start traveling and learn more about the buisness, tat's and the machines. but again thnx for the info.....knowing how to make the machine work is so important