New Rotar shift2

[tatu richie]

damn im glad u feel my pain sage with the splatter...

[slicksteel]

I wonder if needle runners would make it work better with less splatter.

[Rotar]

Hi all, im sorry for the silence, and im happy i have sent the machines already and you now have positive and negative feedbacks in which i really need that for future development. about the splatter, please try not to push the needle grommet lean on the end of the needle pin. We will extend that 1mm more so that when you push back the grommet, the needle bar will stay on the middle and will prevent from any splatter. also we still have to develop more on the machine connection, change it into RCA. and the vise lock needs to be changed design for a better grip on fingers, it will be a simple wingnut design so that the fingers will have a better grip on the lock and no more twisting of the tubes. on our next run, we will file the sharp object that is intended to be a hook for the rubberband. and we have just found a way on how to have it with a complete give. we are now testing our experiment and it works like a dream... please send me more input for the future change as we will have our next batch of run very soon. i appreciate all your support and feedbacks, it will help our product arrive to the best it can. thank you.

[throwhammers]

As far as the rubber bands go:
It works well if you dont put them over the whole machine, but rather loop one side on one of the pointy parts by the swash plate, then pull the rubber band across the front of the mahine and loop it over the point on the other side. Kind of hard to explain, but basically they just go across the front of the machine and you end up with a doubled up rubber band. if needed I can upload a pic.

[slicksteel]

Nin I think you should make the next one with more metal ,you have shaved to much off in your quest to make it light & look cool A good weight to help push the needles, absorb vibrations and make it less fragile would be 3 to 4oz .This would also make for a machine that is easy to wipe down without all the holes etc gone as the laws are going that way,which makes it more sanitary .Also it would cut down on the machining cost down which will make it more feasible for you and future customers as for the money saved you could put a better motor in for the same price.

But you must make small batches first and test these out with friends etc. for free before selling to the public! Paying customers are not here to be used as paying guinea pig testers!
It is a cool idea you have going but needs alot of time to get it were it should be if it is to be sold.I hope all works out for you.

[Sage Oz]

Oops not "I" tools, I meant "No" tools
Stupid spellcheck

[Sage Oz]

Hey Nin glad your back around and here to defend yourself against the critism from everyone including me jajaja. Slick and Hammers are right, there are a few small but important improvements that would make this machine perfect: a bit thicker supports, rca plugs, flat sides without the all the holes and oval cut-outs(though they do look cool), a higher quality ball bearing motor, smooth edges and no sharp points, a guillotine vise or reverse the current chuck so that tube doesn't spin. I'd also like to see a better slider(maybe larger diameter) that fits tighter to eliminate twist and sideways slop. Setscrews that have knobs on them so that the spring adjustment can be made with I tools on the fly.

[Rotar]

yeah, i really think so. thanks a lot. ok, i am considering all that to match with what we maintain as our style. regarding machine built, it may look as fragile but it is not really since we use 7075 aluminum and we guarantee strength with our machine frame stand as also they are short. i think i have to go back with the old chuck style in a different lock grip design, that will solve the problem of twisting and lock grip on finger problem. also for all not to use extra layer of cord, we can settle to an RCA exclusively and file the rubberband stay sharp point. i really think removing the holes are really cool as they would be sanitary since after few test of the machine, we really found out that the machine has to be covered. about the motor, we use high quality mabuchi 10v motor with precious metal brush and i believe it works a lot better. on the fly, well that i need to still think of since i really intend to design a setup on machine adjustment before the tattoo and not during the tattoo session, but i may consider that. thanks a lot and it really helps so much.

[Sage Oz]

I'm sure it's plenty strong, 7075 is great stuff, just saying that a bit more metal would eliminate vibrations for steadier linework. I know it's a balance between that and liteweight for ease and longevity of use/reduction of fatigue. Perhaps a liner version that's an ounce heavier at the vise? If nothing else a bit thicker supports would ease a few minds about the strength, sway a few of those that might be on the fence about buying one because it's "too lite and spindly looking".
What about the slider bar? On mine there is almost a 1mm difference in diameter, I can see it by removing the Setscrews and springs looking down with a lamp on the other side. That allows a lot of sideways play.

[Rotar]

thanks sage. yes we will check all of these considerations before we proceed on the next run. i can thicken that or add an extra weight anywhere i see it has to. or i can add a vibrational matrix anywhere for the vibrations to pass through for better vibration absorption. slider piston or the needle pin to have almost zero tolerance on its guide will eliminate the sideplay. all of these are very much helpful...