Direct Drive Rotary Spits Ink Out Tip

[slicksteel]

When i had that machjne i ran the needles straight and but the rubber bands up higher towards the motor or they tend to bust. I think if you notched the motor plate on each side pretty far in as the frame permits (which i have seen others of this type do)you then use one standard rubber band wrapped twice or one of those thick wide n short rc plane rubber bands once. This helps to keep the bar from going side to side to much wich is causeing the ink spit. some of these machines will have a flat thick piece of metal shaped like a u channel screwed to the front of the plate so the needle rides in the middle of the grooveThis only allows a little bit of play as to not bind the needles/bar up. If you notice dan the rotary mans frames he has around round shaft going from his motorcan to his chuck.This allows him to rap the rubber band twice close to the needle bar as he stated on the forum to control the sway of the needle to somewhat get it going straight.I think his desighn is great as it's simple,works and puts the weight forward.But i do notice that with directdrive roterys they favor large mags to keep the the needles down with little play(weight) and small liner needle groupings with fitted round tip(less skin resistance and keeps the needle in one place as it exits tip.
Also dont stick the needles to far past the tip as it has no guide and support which will cause it jump,spit ink more. I hope I have helped a bit.If you done't like that front motor plate you could always get a new plate made with notches cut in so the center area were the rubber bands will wrap will be the same as the barrel thickness.If you get the straight plate style you can get 3 sets of notches in it so you can have some tension adjustment for differnet needles. It does have a excelent motor and chuck and would be very easy to mod it that way and sell your plate to recoup funds.