Page 3 of 3 FirstFirst 123
Results 21 to 27 of 27

Thread: Mini Cranker

  1. #21
    Knows Whats Up! skinmech's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2011
    Location
    UK..
    Posts
    2,444
    Post Thanks / Like
    Quote Originally Posted by smiley View Post
    hey skinmech my mini cranker has the metal clip instead of the o ring on the drive bar i heard this makes it no give do you recomend i use it this way or opt for the o ring i told dan i was using it for lining and color packing and he sent it with the metal clip so im wondering your opinion . also i see some running bands over the a bar whats up with that
    IMO, you don't need any give with this machine,doesn't matter if it is for Lining, Shading or Packing, let your volts and hanspeed do all the work..It is "slightly" dampened, but treat it as a no give machine..I think some people run it with bands over the top of the Abar as that is the way they come packed...I removed that band, and run mines with out it..

  2. #22
    Knows Whats Up! skinmech's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2011
    Location
    UK..
    Posts
    2,444
    Post Thanks / Like
    Quote Originally Posted by adamfromessex View Post
    ...... direct drives- whats their pro's n con's and feel?
    The cranker isn't a Direct Drive, it is a Linear machine (imo) the abar goes straight up and down, which makes for accurate line work, a Direct Drive machine is Cam driven, the cam moves in a circular motion, and the needle bar loop clips onto the cam, so your needles will move in a side to side motion or "wobble"...I can't line with a DDR,but they are great for colour work...Basically you have 3 main groups of Rotaries,
    Direct Drive- Mike Metaxa, Old Timer etc
    Give System- Swash, Centri etc
    No Give System- Rotaryworks, Bazooka etc.

    There are variations,adjustable and infinite give and Hybrids, but this is the basic guide I go by.....Long Live No Give...P.

  3. #23
    Senior Member Fatlad5's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2012
    Location
    Glasgow
    Posts
    196
    Post Thanks / Like
    Quote Originally Posted by skinmech View Post
    IMO, you don't need any give with this machine,doesn't matter if it is for Lining, Shading or Packing, let your volts and hanspeed do all the work..It is "slightly" dampened, but treat it as a no give machine..I think some people run it with bands over the top of the Abar as that is the way they come packed...I removed that band, and run mines with out it..
    you line with no bands and no needle runner? Do you put a bend in the needle bar or at the solder at all?

  4. #24
    Knows Whats Up!
    Join Date
    Jan 2011
    Location
    doncaster
    Posts
    1,467
    Post Thanks / Like
    Quote Originally Posted by Fatlad5 View Post
    you line with no bands and no needle runner? Do you put a bend in the needle bar or at the solder at all?
    I snap on the needlerunner just past halfway towrds the needles,then I put a slight bend between the needle group and the end of the needlerunner. Regarding give-as Paul says there is already a tadge of dampening on these machines, but if you would like a little more simply use a softish peice of silicon tube for your grommet ( look at my photos, the machine on the left ) and then simply use your own hand skills to do the rest.
    Regarding hand skills, let's take for instance "Rotaryworks" those machines have no forgiveness at all ,but I have done some very nice B&G with them, once again using a silicon grommet. In fact today my mini Rotaryworks with 2.5 stroke and Maxon motor will arrive today, I just know that's gonna be awesome for B&G.

  5. #25
    Knows Whats Up! skinmech's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2011
    Location
    UK..
    Posts
    2,444
    Post Thanks / Like
    Quote Originally Posted by Fatlad5 View Post
    you line with no bands and no needle runner? Do you put a bend in the needle bar or at the solder at all?
    LOL..No I use one band which I attach to the front lugs...I meant I removed the band which goes over the top of the abar....Do what Peter says and you won't go wrong..

  6. #26
    Knows Whats Up! thesmokingmirror's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2011
    Location
    Portland
    Posts
    576
    Post Thanks / Like
    I think the band over the Abar is just the reset position for the band kinda like some people do with coils if they reuse the bands. I watched a few of his videos when I first got mine to make sure he didnt use it this way
    Last edited by thesmokingmirror; 06-28-2012 at 07:15 PM.

  7. #27
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Nov 2011
    Location
    Essex
    Posts
    219
    Post Thanks / Like
    sorry skinmech, i meant as i am looking to pos buy one of DK's direct drives aswell

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •