Oskar "Droid"

[skinmech]

Oskar “Droid” from Vinoshitto

I was lucky enough to be one of the guys to try out this Machine from Oskar...
Okay, I will keep it simple, it is built for “Purpose, rather than Looks”...It uses a “Silicone a-bar”, and the more you increase the volts, the more rigid the a-bar becomes, and this increases the “force of hit”..I ran it on Piggy (Due to CC issues, and other risks, I run prototypes out on Piggy first, never Humans).
Colour work was with a 13rm, it ran pretty smooth from 3.8 volts upwards, I reckon 4.2-4.5 v’s will cover most colour work..I had some “thinner” silicone tube, so 20 secs removes the original a-bar, and I put it the thinner tubing, the thinner tubing means you have more scope to increase the volts before the a-bar becomes rigid...I assume, if you fitted a “thick” silicone tube, then it would offer no dampening properties, and it would be a true “no-give Machine”.
Lining, with a 7rl/9rl, again, nice and smooth, no splatter or drama, I reckon at 5 volts it runs about 120 cps, and at 6v’s 140cps, so 5.0-6.0v’s, will be enough..
I need to add, although this is basically an aluminium frame, housing a pretty powerful motor, there was very little vibration and decent balance..It works a thousand times better than it looks..I reckon, if a Soft, Med and Hard “silicone a-bar” was added and the base plate was “smoothed off”, then there is no reason why this couldn’t sell as it is..Sometimes “Less is More” .
Overall....depending on Price.....8 outta 10....It wouldn’t take much to make it a 10..
Please bear in mind, this is a working model, and was produced for research and development purposes. Oskar had the faith in his build to offer these out, he needs to be respected for that.

I am happy to answer any questions, or just hit Vino up...

[skinmech]

I was asked if changing over the "Silicone tube a-bar" would make a difference.....I reckon if a thinner, or less dense tube is fitted, then you can run it at higher volts, and still have a soft hitting machine, which would be good for B&G Work...A thicker, or more dense tube would mean it would require less volts to hit hard, so would be good for detailed Liner work....The tube just now is medium density, so , it is good as as all rounder...

[johndameart]

very cool! im gonna be using it again hopefully today so ill be posting another review on how it performs and i agree, it is built for performance, rather than looks, which i would take over the look of it.

I also agree about 8 out of 10 as of now if he can keep costs low and worry about performance as he has done, this will be an awesome machine for sure!!

[tattood]

damn that looks really cool, nice and quiet and smooth sounding

[johndameart]

it is!

He was 100% correct on the barely any vibration as well! this thing runs like a beast for lining. I was using a loose 9 liner from kingpin at around 6 volts. and still ran quiet.

I want to try it for color and filler but my appointments I had were lining out sessions so Soon I will get to see that type of performance on it.

the only thing I suggested as well was a return spring that can be removed and also to separate the clip cord connections a little more so that the cord doesnt swing back outward.

What did you think about that clip cord separation and possibly a return spring that can be removed skinmech?

[thesmokingmirror]

whats he selling them for?

[johndameart]

their isnt a price tag as of yet, these are prototype models.

[skinmech]

The return spring isn't a concern of mine, a "blip" of the pedal, and the needle will withdraw into the tube. I like the Sidewheeler Clipcord connections, an elastic band looped over the cord and body will keep it in place,but tbh, it didn't bother me......To keep costs to a minimum, some design aspects will be financially driven...Price is yet to be decided...But, it will be affordable,P.

[Vinoshitto]

I will see if I can come up with an idea that's gonna keep the clip cords not flying about.


* move out the clip cord connectors about 2mm from the rest of the body.
* maybe make slimmer binding posts with a 1.5-1.8mm "ditch" carved in it so it will fit the clip cord, thus make it stay in place. seen it before, but dont know if it would be preferred by people. can carv them on one side, and if people don't dig having it "locked in place" then you just turn it 180.

[skinmech]

Here is a 20 second Mod, made from our "Old Friend" Needle Bar loops.....These can be moved into any position, and, if you turn them face round, it will hold the clippy very secure against the body of the Machine, as I said, it didn't bother me, and I had a Minute to spare..