Hello everyone!
It's been a long time since I have been on here.. Been super busy!

Anyways, I have heard from one member on here that there may be a little frustration about me switching things up too much.
I appologize if you are annoyed by that, but please respect that I am an inventor and innovator.
My #1 goal is making the best possible machine I can.

I keep hundreds of spare parts for my older model machines on hand, so I can do any repairs needed.
If for some reason I don 't have it, I am able to make every part of any machine I have made. I have a complete machine shop!
-That may explain the recent revisions... I enjoy experimenting with new concepts, and now have the tooling and machinery to materialize it better than before.

MC2 vs MC-13
I moved to the MC2 from the MC-13 because I was having issues with the adjustable stroke flywheel I was using.
there were too many moving parts and too many ways something could be wrong.
Out of frustration, I had a revelation of a super condensed flywheel that would shorten the machine dramatically, and got super stoked on it.

For those who miss the adjustable stroke, STAY TUNED! I have a new style adjustable stroke flywheel in the works that will have a 3.5, 4, 4.5, and 5mm stroke settings, and much more simple to change on the fly.
I plan on having that towards the end of the year.
It will be the MC-14

I recently discovered a new setup where it still has a bit of dampening, but snappier, and more precise for lining and shading/coloring... especially when using t-techs.

DK DIRECT
I recently changed up my direct drive with a new flywheel.
again, less problematic. I found people were having issues with the older model bogging down, caused from the rubber nipple rubbing on the face of the flywheel.
The new model uses a bearing for the actual nipple, similar to Jondix or Uncle Roy's, but different.
the bearing isn't press fitted on. it can easily be swapped, and is a common bearing that can be procured at any bearing supply or industrial supply store.
It comes with a taper pin for spreading the needlebar eye loop, but you can also use a #4 taper gage pin that piercers use.
It hits harder, and comes with a 3.7mm throw, which is as large as I found I could go before it gets too squirrely.
I also lengthened the arm as the older model sat too high for those using shorter tubes.
There is also less drag, so with the same motor, it runs a volt lower to achieve the same speed.

Maxon Version
I will soon have my Maxon version out, and really exited about it.
The motor I am currently using is good, but for someone wanting the best, this is it.
I have done extensive research, and have a custom made Maxon motor that is as good as it can get for my machines.
It runs at the same volt/rpm ratio as my current motor, but can be ran at up to 9 volts without damaging the motor. (average volts I tattoo at is 6-7)
It also has a ball bearing motor shaft support and a more robust brush material that both will add years more motor life.
there is a bit more torque, and can handle the t-tech and Cheyenne cartridges with ease.

Building quality machines that make our tattooing experience better is my life passion.
I am not deliberately trying to switch stuff up on everyone. It is more that I keep finding little glitches and I listen to people's feedback, and make changes accordingly.

AGAIN, I continue to carry spare parts for all of my models, so you can be at ease that I will be able to repair any older model you have!

Thank you for taking time to read this, and your continued support!