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From what I have discovered it seems DD is the way I want to go.
And the new HM adjustable seems to be perfect machine to try.
I feel there is a perfect stitch speed and stroke length for every type of tattoo wether
its BnG lining or color. And with the proper hand speed, technique and pressure
there should be no situation that can't be tackled.
That being said I'm curious how well it lines, packs and grey washes?
I had almost all the machines and hm is the best ! I can use it for all - and can focus on my artwork because you need not a lot of technique to get good black and gray results or gardiens.
It lines like a laser and i have no trouble with young girls and super elastic skin. I can change the stroke on the fly and get fast results. My HM work from 3,5v to 9v great for all.
The machine packs white in the skin with easy and no blood contamination and all colors are briliant !
The weight feels less than it has. My Hyper V3 feels heavier and i get a great balance. The only machine that i look to is a second HM directdrive or a gen8 :)
I post some pics of work with the hm later :)
I love your choice of retoric............are we talking tattooing or sex here? and yes Romans' machines are great ;).Quote:
Originally Posted by darkness
Yeah I really love lining with my RW I.D. so I'm basically looking for a machine that can do it all. Love DD and love the idea of chancging a stroke on the fly.
By the way 3.5 volts to 9. That's a grip of range. What ate your avg volts for each application style?
I find threads like this very strange. As it's all down to an individuals technique there is no such thing as a machine that does all. A lot of machines are capable of being all rounders but only if the tattooist's style suits the machine. Otherwise we'd all be using the same machine and there'd be no need for a forum like this. Certainly the adjustable nature and build quality put a machine like Roman's at the top of an all rounder list but it will ONLY be used to it's potential in the right hands< not talking skill and experience here, purely differing techniques and adaptability.
lol i have an adjustable hm dd and it does everything i want it to do but so do some of the other machines i have
You don't have to worry if it will pack color. IT WILL. I haven't tried it for B&G yet. What volts is everybody use it for B&G?
i use most 7,5v for lining and for soft color blending around 5v ( i run it slower with slower handspeed) ...colorpacking i run it around 7 - 8v , for b&g i use 2.5 - 3 stroke with 4 to 7v ( depending on the effect)
Sorry my english is not the best :( but the most understand me.
I read you loud & clear thank you for the information.
i will post pics of a tattoo with the used volt and stroke and infos about the effects . My colors are from Atomic and eternal with broad elastic bands and build my grommets self from a silikon tube ( RC Cars petrol pipe)
Awesome, I am interested in seeing all of that. Thanks.
Also ...can anyone post a pic of the HM adjustable loaded in a side view so i can see where your rubber bands are riding. i asked Roman to make me one with side pegs liek teh Halo.. i think that a really smart design because i believe the rubber bands should be a little above the tube vise IMHO
u and ur rubberband placement.lol ^^
Seriously questions like this should not be asked, especially by veteran artists. This stuff is easily figured out and isn't rocket science. Mick-
Ha,ha,ha..well said Mick, you're like Rich, you certainly don't mince your words.Quote:
Originally Posted by MickWrath
damn just so simple it might work.. :)Quote:
Originally Posted by MickWrath
Haha actually that is the minced version haha. It's probably why I like Richie, he gets it. ;-)
Everyone has their idea of what feels right when tattooing... I hate when rubber bands ride up the needle bar because they are being slowly pulled up because of the horizontal unevenness of some machine designs...
And i agree, this is not a problem a veteran coil user would have to post, But it is an question an amateur rotary user might ask. I never ask coil questions in here because I know those answers, that's why I am in a rotary forum room asking question to you veteran rotary users - Mick
And don't get me wrong, you have been to most helpful of all the forum members, I don't mind direct or blatantly honest answers. It's all constructive criticism to me. I know I have a fucking hell of an ego. It's my life's bane to be more humble, and Mick, you humble me again and again and i thank you for that. Whether you embarrass me or not, I always get something out of it.
Im not trying to embarrass anyone homie, if I were I wouldnt have helped with the picture you asked for. Its just easier sometimes to search for answers on here and problem solve yourself, especially for more simple tasks, than just relying on someone to give you answers everytime. This is geared at all of us not just you Crab. I see questions repeatedly asked that I know the answers were given here in multiple threads. I do however respect your humble reply Crab, it shows appreciation and I return the respect right back.
wow i gotta use two of those lucky's wide rubberbands to tame the needle in my mike metexa machines, does only one rubberband do it in the HM one?
Yes sir one and done.
Much love homie.. much love..Quote:
Originally Posted by MickWrath
Attachment 17867
cured, but i have lost a little black :(
The eye looks nice, everything under it looks Photoshopped. I don't know if it is or not. If it's not, that is really smooth looking.
That looks a little odd to me, hmmmm Photoshop I agree. It dont even look tattooed. I could be wrong and I hope I am but.
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i have used photoshop brusha for the sketch ...the guy would thats looks old and not as strong. The most is with 2.5 to 3mm stroke and Atomik gray tones
Depends on the stroke you set it at,if you went really long you may hear some clatter on the side of the tube,a needlerunner will deal with that.Quote:
Originally Posted by S_Trofatter
i use needlerunner too but i think its not difference to the rubberbands , for my is the rubberband easyer to use.
Shorter tube stems will get rid of any sidewall/needlebar interaction when using the 5.5 adjustment which I only use to fill solid color.
i tried needle runners also, more of a hassel then rubber bands used em a few times and went back to rubber bands
I so wish the industry would reduce all overall tube length by 1/4 inch (or metal tube backstems by 1/4 inch) the standard is way to long because it was designed for coils... and even then i used to cut all my tubes 1/4 shorter to keep the rubber bands low ( which is easy to do on coils)... high rubber bands can pull the bar in at the top to much, lifting the mag needles off the flat tip surface on the other end.. and you loose ink flow... that is why I make such a big deal about where my rubber bands are lol.Quote:
Originally Posted by MickWrath
I use metal blitz tubes from tatsoul and i wish they would ofter 2 lengths.. a 1/4 shorter back step option
Goodluck irons tubes are 5mm shorter than the blitz. This has its own host of problems with some machines that have compact geometry.Quote:
Originally Posted by crabink
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If you contact blitz directly "Doc" may have shorter backstems? The original centri and the Dan kubin direct drive are compact geometry that unless you want to hang all your needle out will not accommodate a short tube.
Back on topic. :)
I can confirm after seeing the direct drive from Roman used this weekend to tattoo a palm (ouch!) The one piece tip and tail from goodluck irons work great.
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